Mobile Food Court

Neil Diamond songs are among those cultural artifacts that never really go out of style. Remember "Brother Love's Traveling Salvation Show," the title track from Diamond's 1969 fourth album? In that song, Neil tells us to "pack up the babies” and “grab the old ladies" as an audience gathers to be inspired by an touring evangelist. Those lyrics may be about religion, but these days what seems to inspire people is traveling food. Food trucks have become a trend because they allow relatively low cost innovation without the risk of choosing the wrong location. They also allow existing establishments to reach customers outside their immediate zones of influence.

Compared to some other cities, Phoenix has been seen as lagging in food truck culture, with Maricopa County's strict regulations most often cited as the cause. Regardless of the reasons for the delay, mobile eateries are becoming popular here, and new Mobile Food Court (MFC), which occurs each Friday from 11 AM to 1 PM on the grounds of the Downtown Phoenix Public Market, is an attempt to cluster and cultivate the best of the bunch in one convenient location just two blocks south of the Roosevelt / Central light rail station. The Mobile Food Court is an outgrowth of the recently-formed Phoenix Street Food Coalition.

The setting is not glamorous. It's essentially a parking lot with some shade canopies. Nevertheless, the organizers have made it work by circling the trucks on the perimeter like an old-fashioned wagon train and then placing long tables in the center. The seating is effective because it not only allows for groups of all sizes, but also encourages mingling among customers who have never met before. It's one of the most social dining arrangements in town and a nice enrichment of the sometimes frayed urban fabric of Downtown.

The exact lineup of the MFC varies from one week to another, but during the initial weeks, there have been about half a dozen regulars. Some, including Short Leash Dogs, are known from the farmer’s markets at the same site. Short Leash offers hot dogs from local purveyor Schreiner's combined with creative toppings and Indian naan in lieu of the usual soggy buns. A crowd favorite is the Noki, in which a beef hot dog is adorned with pinto beans, cheese, and green chilies, but you can have your dog just about any way you want -- even with mango chutney if that's your thing.

Breaking down boundaries among cuisines is equally important at Sunshine and Spice, which takes Mexican-influenced streets foods and fills them with Asian-inspired fillings. Teriyaki beef, barbecue pork, coconut curry chicken, and mushrooms are all available as components of tacos or burritos. The chicken is probably the most mildly flavored, while the mushrooms, not content to play the role of a token vegetarian entree, burst with flavor from their sesame soy glaze and accompanying guacamole and wasabi sauce.

Updating a comfort food classic is the theme at Paradise Melts, a brightly-decorated truck devoted to the humble grilled cheese sandwich. Paradise Melt will be happy to make a standard sandwich, but also lets customers experience its own creations, including a reuben, a veggie sandwich on sourdough, and a “Cali-melt” that blends Havarti with roast turkey and avocado into a smooth mix of ingredients that contrasts appropriately with the slight crunch of whole wheat bread. Even the beverages are distinctive, with house-made (or should that be “truck-made”?) iced chai and lemonade both refreshing options.

A different approach to sandwiches is found among the po’ boys offered by Riteway Catering, a truck devoted to barbecue. Standard menu choices include pulled pork, hot links, and a Caribbean beef sandwich nicely adorned with pickled onion. There’s also a monthly special with a bit of cross-cultural flair, most recently a Korean po’ boy. The side dish is tater tots -- maybe not organic, local, or artisanal, but who can really resist them? There’s also a monthly cobbler or pie for dessert.

Speaking of dessert, most visits to the MFC should end with a stop at AZ59Chevy, as its known on Twitter, the truck operated by Scottsdale-based Sweet Republic, an ice cream shop not only recognized locally, but also in nationwide media such as the TLC Cable Network and Bon Appetit magazine. Sweet Republic offers everything from uncommon flavors like “I Love Bacon” and lime-basil sorbet to uncommonly good takes on traditional flavors such as Madagascar vanilla and Belgian chocolate.

To be sure, this list is not comprehensive.Trucks will come and go, and that’s part of the appeal of a mobile food court. Since this event occurs only one day a week, it’s unlikely to undermine the lunch trade at nearby restaurants. Instead, it’s a chance for customers and potential restaurateurs to try something new. Hot dogs, grilled cheese, tacos, barbecue, ice cream, and more all in one central and accessible location -- it’s almost as much fun as a classic Neil Diamond song.

14 E. Pierce St., Phoenix AZ 85004
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