Bliss

You may have loved them or hated them, but nearly everyone remembers Jesus Jones, the band that dominated alternative rock charts almost two decades ago with hits like “Right Here, Right Now” from the album “Doubt.” The less well-known song “Blissed” is the album’s chill-out closer. Lately, there’s been a need for some bliss at Fourth Street and Garfield at the north end of Downtown Phoenix. Fate, the original restaurant at the corner and one of the earliest Downtown pioneers, closed after a dispute between business associates, and its successor Nine 05 shut its doors following a brief run and unfulfilled promises of anchoring a cluster of restaurants at the location.

Finding the new and appropriately named Bliss means looking past the nearby vacant lots on the short route from the Roosevelt/Central light rail station to the restaurant. The previous tenants left behind a smartly rehabilitated old building. Taking advantage of that opportunity are some of the same people behind Switch and Fez. Having created two dining destinations in Midtown, they’ve ventured Downtown with an approach based on moderately priced comfort foods. Gone are the pricey foie gras and trendy pork belly served at Nine 05. Instead, there’s a simpler menu based on burgers, mac-and-cheese, and other non-threatening dishes. Like its cousins to the north, Bliss seems more focused on feeding a neighborhood than garnering foodie accolades.

The space is divided between Bliss, the restaurant, and reBAR next door. Each half has its own patio, and outdoors is definitely the place to sit when the weather is mild. Many elements of the decor from Nine 05 remain unaltered, but the food is completely different. The menu is modular in taking a few building blocks and reusing them in myriad contexts. The braised beef shows up not only in a familiar pot roast entree, but also as a component of nachos or tacos. To work in all those contexts, the meat has to be fork-tender, which it is, and relatively neutral in flavor. That’s hardly the same as saying it’s bland, though, and Bliss offers a variety of complimentary side sauces for customers who wish to boost the flavor of any dish.

For the most part, the food served and the ingredients used are within known territory. One of the daily fish dishes uses straightforward cod, although it is topped with a spicy red pepper coulis and combines well with a seasonal vegetable and “cauliflower mash.” The latter is probably best known as a mashed potato alternative embraced by followers of low-carb diets. To be honest, the buttery version served at Bliss is indistinguishable from actual mashed potatoes. Whether the substitution is needed nor not, it works on the plate. Another seafood choice, shrimp tacos, comes San Diego style with breaded prawns, cabbage, and a spicy sauce inside flour tortillas.

One issue with the food at Bliss is a tendency to rely too much on sweet tastes. That’s not surprising since Fez has occasionally done the same, and Bliss’ chef comes from its Midtown cousin. Some of the sauces are appropriately sweet, and they work in contexts such as the coconut chicken tenders appetizer. On the other hand, the sweetness seems out of place in the orange rice pilaf that is paired with the chicken kabobs. Likewise, the rocket salad is serviceable but seems tame without the intense peppery bite that comes from wild varieties of arugula. It benefits from the accompanying goat cheese fritters, which add heft and a bit of contrast.

One place where the kitchen’s sweet touch makes complete sense is in the dessert offerings. A brownie sundae is pretty basic but hard to resist with the complementary textures of rich chocolate cake and smooth vanilla ice cream. The daily cobbler is equally effective with crisp pastry lying beneath fruit such as pears. Both desserts are generous enough to share among two or three people. The beverage selections coming from reBAR focus on cocktails. Wine and beer offerings are limited and would benefit from some well-though out expansion. For now, a pint of Oak Creek hefeweizen goes down well on a warm day, and the punchy house red holds it own with the entrees on the menu. There’s a lot more that could be done, though, with interesting drafts and wines by the glass.

It appears Bliss is deliberately being cautious in order to avoid the fate of previous occupants of its building. That’s understandable, particularly in light of the lingering recession, but there’s a fine line between being cautious and playing it safe. Just as Fez and Switch have steadily improved after several years of operation, Bliss has the opportunity to show a little more sense of adventure as it matures. In music, Jesus Jones’ follow-up album “Perverse” did not attain the same blockbuster status as “Doubt,” and the band became less prominent by the mid-’90s. Let’s hope that Bliss heads in the other direction -- growing in popularity and becoming more self-assured as it matures.

901 N. 4th St., Phoenix AZ 85004
Map
(602) 795-1792
http://www.blissonfourth.com/