Karim's Cobbler Shop & Deli

The neighborhood cobbler has been described in recent years as a vanishing profession. More people are treating footwear as essentially disposable, finding the latest styles at a bargain rather than resoling or repairing a tried-and-true pair of shoes. Still, dedicated cobblers work hard in hidden spots in strip malls and store fronts. Given the location of Karim's Cobbler Shop & Deli in the ground floor of a parking garage, it would be easy to think this place is a shoe repair shop that serves sandwiches on the side. In reality, it's not that kind of cobbler shop at all. Instead, the cobbler here is usually all about peaches and is best preceded by fried fish.

Knowing that you'll need to seek shoe repair elsewhere, it's best to approach Karim's as a place for a casual, filling lunch in the shadow of the big sports and convention venues that dominate the southeast quadrant of Downtown Phoenix. The location is easy to find and convenient. Eastbound trains stop right outside the door at the 3rd Street / Jefferson light rail station, and westbound trains are a block to the north at the 3rd Street / Washington station. The energy level in the neighborhood varies enormously; it's bustling during sports events and concerts in the evening, but often sleepy during the day.

The restaurant’s interior is small and informal. Order at the counter and wait for your food to be brought to you. There are some tables, but the nicest seating is at a counter that faces toward Jefferson Street. From there, customers can watch the trains and traffic go by. Behind the counter and on the back wall, there’s all sorts of local sports memorabilia, including a Wheaties box honoring the Phoenix Mercury and various bobble heads of Phoenix athletes. Sometimes, the old-school picture tube televisions are tuned to CNN; otherwise, you might hear classic jazz from Miles Davis over the speakers.

During major events, Karim's sells a lot of burgers, hot dogs, and beverages to fans heading to and from the big box venues nearby. Those are all perfectly good, but the small restaurant's best specialties are probably unknown to those who go there only on game nights. For a main dish, fried fish is what Karim's does best. There are two options available: whiting and catfish. On the plate, they're hard to distinguish. Both come in similarly-sized fillets with the same cornmeal coating. The slight difference is that the whiting has a bit more fish flavor, while the catfish is tender, flaky white meat that comes closer to tasting "just like chicken." A condiment bar features malt vinegar and several bottled hot sauces. The best option, though, might be to ask for some of the “Frank’s RedHot” sauce that’s kept behind the counter.

Both species of fish come in platters that begin at two pieces and go up from there. By default, either type of fish comes with fries of just average quality, but Karim and his staff are usually happy to substitute another side. Take them up on that offer and try some of the impressive soul food vegetable dishes. The collard greens are just about perfect -- cooked enough to rid them of any leathery texture, but not so much as to make them mushy. The okra gumbo is another winner. There's no sliminess in this okra -- just al dente pieces of the vegetable in a peppy stew with tomato, onions, and corn. Coleslaw and potato salad are less exotic but perfectly serviceable. Surprisingly, the fish platters also come with soft whole wheat bread, which might be useful in constructing a sandwich, although it’s hard to imagine having room for bread on top of fish and chips.

For the fish avoider, there are beef and chicken barbecue sandwiches available. Both are made with a nice sauce, although the beef could be more tender and the chicken sandwich on one visit had far too much skin intermingled with the meat. Since the barbecue is not as strong as fried fish here, anyone looking for a "landlubber special" might do better with a simple hamburger or hot dog. The ubiquitous Gardenburger is also on the menu for anyone seeking a vegetarian entree, although an assortment of sides paired with a generous slab of cornbread might make an even more satisfying meatless meal. Try the red beans and rice for plant-based protein.

As its name implies, Karim's is one place where you simply must save room for dessert. Peach cobbler is available every day, and it's a simple pleasure with supple fruit matched with a flaky crust. Adding a scoop of vanilla ice cream is a worthwhile indulgence. Other cobblers such as apple or berry are available occasionally and can be ordered by the pan. Equally impressive is the sweet potato pie. Like the cobbler, it's sweet, but not excessively so. Drinks are limited to the soda fountain, iced tea, and a tangy lemonade. You may not be able to get your soles fixed at Karim's, but if you know which items to order, you can definitely enjoy some good soul food hidden among the big venues that dominate Jefferson Street.

333 E. Jefferson St., #102, Phoenix AZ 85004
Map
(602) 257-1801
http://karimscobblershopanddeli.com/