On his 1981 tour-de-force, "Trust," Elvis Costello sang that "Yesterday's news is tomorrow's fish 'n' chips paper." The reference was to the English practice of wrapping that country's specialty in old newspaper, a rarity in the U.S. Nevertheless, Costello's lyrics might apply in a different way: Pubs are usually the best place in which to enjoy fish and chips, and often the best pubs are in recycled buildings. That's definitely the case at Heritage Square in Downtown Phoenix, where the Silva House, a former private residence built at the turn of the last century, has been reused as the Rose and Crown, one of many recent arrivals in the area's growing pub scene. In this case, "yesterday's news" might be a reference not only to the Victorian house, but also the two prior tenants: Ruby Beet Gourmet and Circa 1900, two fine dining restaurants that had short runs in the space.
Both of those places got good reviews, but they came five to ten years before Downtown was ready for restaurants of that caliber. Chances are better that they'd survive today given the critical mass of good eating that has since accumulated in the City's core. Once Circa 1900 closed and chef Chris Curtiss relocated to the widely acclaimed Restaurant Noca, it seemed foolish to try another upscale dining experience in the Silva House. Instead, the Rose and Crown sets its sights on the more modest, yet equally important, goals of creating an inviting Downtown pub experience, offering an impressive selection of draft beer, and serving a basic menu of competently prepared pub food for anyone who wants a meal along with a drink.
The location is not only historic, but also strategic. The pub is situated two blocks east of the 3rd St. / Washington (westbound) and 3rd St. / Jefferson (eastbound) light rail stations. It's hidden from passing traffic within Heritage Square, but its placement right across from Pizzeria Bianco ensures an evening crowd of people having a few pints while waiting for their names to be called for a table. During the day, the Rose and Crown benefits from its placement near the Arizona Science Center and the Children's Museum of Phoenix. It's during the daylight hours that the high chairs come out and the unprinted kid's menu is most likely to be recited. Apart from those customers, the Rose and Crown draws its own clientele to its myriad small rooms filled with images of British icons from the Clash to Winston Churchill.
Getting back to fish and chips, the Rose and Crown serves two hearty pieces of beer-battered cod with thickly cut fries. So far, so good, but what's really distinctive here is the tartar sauce. The often prosaic condiment that Montgomery Burns once ridiculed as "tar-tar sauce" is given more attention than usual here, with big pieces of pickle throughout the white mayonnaise base. Think of it as a chunky salsa for fried fish. The accompanying coleslaw isn't bad either. Want fish and chips in a smaller quantity? The pub plate combines a half serving with a cup of clam chowder. The thick soup is a nice potato chowder, but think of the clams as an occasional note rather than the substance of the soup. Other pub grub choices include bangers and mush and a "fish pie," which is really a bowl of creamy fish stew with potatoes and bread on the side.
There's not a lot of greenery on the menu here, but lettuce makes it appearance in a chicken caesar wrap. It's a sandwich that works well with crunchy romaine mixing with blackened white meat and shredded parmesan. There are also salads, burgers, and other familiar fare. No dessert is listed on the menu, and it's unlikely that anyone would have room for "pudding," as it would be called in the U.K., after a pub meal. Any extra calories are more likely to come from the selection of beers on tap. In fact, the beer lineup is likely to be the first thing customers see upon entry. All the usual suspects are here: Guinness, Bass, Smithwick's, etc. There are also rotating seasonal selections like Alaskan White, a Belgian-style ale from the brewery best known for its Alaskan Amber. Wine and cocktails are also available, although this pub is clearly oriented toward beer drinkers.
The service here is definitely pub-like in terms of its casualness and the need for a bit of a self-help approach. The bar in the house's foyer serves as a sort of de facto host station. It's the best place to check in and make one's presence known to the staff before taking a seat in one of the rooms or on the patio. Still, don't expect to be led to a table and don't be surprised if it's necessary to head back to the bar to pay the tab at the end of the meal. The Rose and Crown is hardly the only pub Downtown these days, but a city the size of Phoenix needs a sizable pub culture, so there's room for the Rose and Crown. If the Silva House is yesterday's news after the closing of two previous restaurants there, it's good to see the building in use as today's fish and chips pub.
628 E. Adams St., Phoenix AZ 85004 | Map(602) 256-0223
http://www.theroseandcrownpub.net
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