The Cafe at the Heard Museum

Museums always have to balance the competing goals of preserving the past and reflecting the present. The Heard Museum at the southern end of Midtown is no exception. Since its founding in 1929, the Heard has paired traditional Native American art forms such as turquoise jewelry and kachinas with more contemporary works by 20th Century talents like Allan Houser and Harry Fonseca. Even in this century, new exhibitions and events focus on the creative output of today's artists. With the Heard continuously updating its collections and programming, it's only appropriate that its on-site restaurant move forward at the same pace. Until recently, the Heard had food service provided by Arcadia Farms. With that company no longer involved, the Heard has taken the opportunity to update and rechristen its eatery as the Cafe at the Heard Museum.

The changes are evolutionary, not revolutionary, and continue the equilibrium between museum's native focus and its need to appeal to visitors from out-of-town who might be unfamiliar with regional foods. The cafe's interior has gotten a bit of an update, but on pleasant days, the patio is still the best place to sit. It's a shaded space at the nexus of the museum's grounds, which are conveniently located right across the street from the Encanto / Central light rail station. The serenity of the Heard's grounds contrasts nicely with the more distant urban scene of trains running up and down Central Avenue and new mixed used developments like Tapestry. Museum admission is not required to eat at the cafe, but Heard members receive a 10% discount on their meals.

The Southwestern theme is fulfilled with two dips ideal for sharing as appetizers. A chunky guacamole comes with chips and smaller servings of three distinct accompaniments: a black bean and corn combination, pico de gallo, and an interesting pineapple salsa. A less obvious regional match is the hummus, a food normally associated with the cuisines of the Mediterranean, where the chickpea reigns. At the Heard, however, the hummus is made from tepary beans, a legume indigenous to the Southwest that has become popular in Arizona locavore circles. It's smooth, creamy, and not all the easy to tell from its garbanzo-based cousin. It works well as an appetizer when paired with pita chips, although it finds itself overpowered by copious red onion in a hummus vegetable wrap listed under the sandwiches.

Another sandwich choice, the turkey BLT wrap, is more successful and is rendered at least semi-Southwestern when its contents are enclosed in a Spinach tortilla. Any sandwich can be combined in a half size with a cup of the daily soup, which might be black bean one day or chicken lime the next. The latter has a tangy broth that pairs well with the mild white meat. More substantial entrees include chicken tacos in crispy shells, quesadillas, and spinach-mushroom enchiladas. Big salads are also part of the entree selection. Blue corn tostada salad works well with black beans, avocado, and more combined with optional shrimp or chicken. The Dreamcather takes a similar approach, but with ingredients like currants and Israeli couscous. The combination is appealing, although the deconstructed approach with every ingredient separated makes it hard to combine the flavors in even proportions.

One major addition to the new version of the cafe is a liquor license. There's now a selection of beer and wine in addition to fresh-squeezed lemonade, iced tea, and sodas. The adult beverage offerings are appreciated not only during the standard operating hours of 11 AM until 3 PM, but even more so when the cafe stays open for evening events like NU, the Heard's contribution to the Third Friday arts happening in Phoenix. For dessert, the offerings are pretty standard -- with one key exception: the fry bread made on site. This treat, originally fashioned from rationed commodities provided to Native American populations, is definitely indulgent, but something that a table can enjoy sharing. The fry bread is also offered as a rich snack at stands on the museum grounds during special events.

With hours aligned with the museum's schedule, the Cafe at the Heard is unlikely to become a dining destination in its own right. Nevertheless, it does work just fine for anyone hungry before, during, or after a visit to the museum's galleries. That's important because the nearest cluster of restaurants is located several blocks to the north between Virginia and Thomas. Until the still vacant retail spaces in the ground floor of Tapesty are occupied, the Cafe is the only immediately accessible option. Thankfully, it's good enough so that meals there feel like something to be enjoyed rather than just the path of least resistance. The Heard Museum of 2010 is bigger and better than the original 1929 model. The museum did not even serve food until 1999, but in just over a decade the cafe has become a worthwhile part of the Heard experience.

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