St. Francis

Phoenix is a city that has long struggled with neighborhood identity. Take the large number of recently-arrived transplants, combine them with a rectilinear grid of arterial streets, and the result is a population more likely to describe any given portion of the city as an intersection rather than a neighborhood. That means easy navigation along the region's six-lane thoroughfares, but sometimes a sense of place so weak that it leads to widespread geographic error: a lack of distinction between Downtown, Midtown, and Uptown; misplacement of North Central Phoenix above the Phoenix Mountains Preserve, rather than below it, where the neighborhood truly lies; and endless confusion about the border between Phoenix and Scottsdale. The last item is particularly frustrating because the confused almost always misassign Phoenix territory to the city's eastern suburb.

It's a minor miracle, therefore, when a new business takes its name from an established, named neighborhood in which it lies. In the case of St. Francis, a restaurant recently opened on Camelback just two blocks east of the Central / Camelback station, the name reflects a very specific neighborhood, rather than the broader, more ambiguous "Uptown" that surrounds it. Basically, St. Francis is the residential area that lies southeast of Central and Camelback, just above the landmark Brophy and Xavier schools. The St. Francis neighborhood is not as well-known as the nearby Windsor Square, Medlock Place, and Pierson Place historic districts, but its namesake restaurant might just put the neighborhood on the map. The new restaurant is a loving restoration of a mid-century building in a manner that is simultaneously contemporary and respectful of the structure's heritage.

What's most striking about the renovated building is its airiness and accessibility. Development along Camelback Road was designed primarily for the car, but St. Francis addresses the sidewalk more than the parking lot. The restaurant's entrance, as well as its bar, with both indoor and outdoor seating, face the busy street. In a pleasingly unusual move, those arriving by car must walk around to the front to enter the dining room. Usually, it's the other way around with those arriving on foot having to awkwardly navigate a parking lot in order to reach the front door. Inside, theopenness continues. An extensive patio is almost as large as the interior dining room, and a four-seat counter looks directly into the kitchen. The latter is the best place for guests who want a view of the restaurant's word-burning oven and an opportunity to chat with the line cooks using it for their craft.

The wood-burning oven is central to the cuisine at St. Francis. There's a lot of emphasis on roasted foods -- not only straightforward meats like roasted chicken, but also meatless entrees like a flatbread topped with goat cheese, arugula, and figs -- a perfect mix of crispy and creamy textures with sweet and peppery flavors. Amazingly, a seafood "soup" also emerges from this oven. In actuality, it's more a bowl of mixed seafood -- clams, mussels, shrimp, etc. -- with a little broth in a ceramic bowl, but it makes for a hearty entree with sensations of both Earth and sea. A simple dish like halibut comes out with a delicately charred exterior and tender meat on the inside. The emphasis here is generally on showcasing essential ingredients rather than on complex sauces.

Fish also shows up in the form of a wild salmon salad, one of several interesting starters. St. Francis doesn't waste time on obvious choices like a field greens salad, but instead produces a hearty take on a Caesar with romaine hearts and other vegetables in a buttermilk dressing. A sweet corn soup (center photo below) is rich and velvety as any good chowder should be. The addition of chopped vegetables give the dish some variety and crunch. Among the appetizers, the most filling choice is a simple one: roast fingerling potatoes (right photo below). Its presentation is elegant with the tubers appearing almost like tempura. Nevertheless, it's potatoes through and through, so it can be shared among several diners. Fresh rosemary and sage leaves embellish the dish.

Desserts repeat the fig theme with the fruit appearing alongside strawberries and accentuated with a balsamic glaze and meringue. For the sweet tooth, a chocolate parfait is nicely finished with whole hazelnuts and a bit of cream. At this point the beverage selection is more about quality than quantity. There are only about a dozen wines available, roughly split between reds and whites with a prosecco and a dessert wine thrown in for good measure. Nevertheless, the choices are all solid ones that pair well with the food. Children are accommodated here with free mini-pizzas or servings of pot roast. St. Francis calls itself a "neighborhood restaurant," a phrase also used nearby at Applebee's. Given that comparison, it's safe to say that St. Francis the restaurant has enhanced St. Francis the neighborhood.

111 E. Camelback Rd., Phoenix AZ 85012 | Map
(602) 200-8111
http://www.stfrancisaz.com