Kincaid's

The recent bankruptcy declaration by Bashas', coming on the heels of Independents Week, a celebration of small, locally-based business, has focused attention on the role and impact of Phoenix-based stores and restaurants in comparison to national chains. Arguments in support of buying local include a belief that doing so keeps more dollars in the Phoenix economy and the claim that local businesses add distinctive character to a community. The former claim is hard to document, especially when taking into account the reciprocal impact of consumers around the country who do business with Arizona-based companies. The latter, however, is hard to refute. Phoenix-based independent businesses have traditionally been the risk-takers and adventurers -- the shops and restaurants that help the city defy an unfair stereotype of being dominated strip malls and cookie-cutter housing.

With all that in mind, are there exceptions? Have any outposts of national chains boldly gone where no one has gone before -- filling a culinary void in an area with few restaurant options? After all, most chains usually favor predictable suburban markets outside the 101. If there is an exception, Kincaid's might be the most fitting candidate. Kincaid's is one of about a dozen locations of a small chain based in Seattle and owned by the Restaurants Unlimited organization. In the Pacific Northwest, most Restaurants Unlimited eateries have their own names and identities. The Kincaid's brand, then, appears to be the identity used in markets outside the home region: the Twin Cities, Norfolk, the Bay Area, and, of course, Phoenix.

The Phoenix version of Kincaid's is located on the second floor of the Collier Center, just across the street from the 3rd St. / Washington (westbound) and 3rd St. / Jefferson (eastbound) stations. When it opened at the beginning of the decade, Kincaid's was one of the few full-service restaurants Downtown not located in either the Arizona Center or a hotel. Instead, it established its own identity -- not so much based on culinary innovation, but instead of solid, reliable fare of steak and seafood for Downtown business lunches and evening pre-event dining. Even if that approach seems a little safe compared to urban pioneers like Fate or Pizzeria Bianco, the location itself, largely deserted after dark at the time, represented a risky move for an outside player.

Unlike many chains, Kincaid's does not insist upon complete uniformity in its menu; instead, the kitchen at each location seems to have some autonomy. The result is a changing array of specials and occasional pleasant surprises in the form of local ingredients -- obviously not so much local seafood here in the desert, but more likely in the form of Arizona-grown salad greens. Speaking of salads, they're some of the strongest starters on the menu. When available, a special of Bering Sea red crab (center photo below) with diced avocado and mango offers a colorful balance of sweet, tart, crunchy, and salty sensations. Regular items on the menu include a more straightforward house salad and favorites like onion soup covered with a generous layer of melted cheese. Heartier appetizers include calamari, sliders, and shrimp cocktail. Order a sampler or multiple items, and the bounty will arrive on an imposing appetizer tower.

Entrees are usually an even split between surf and turf with a chicken dish or two thrown in for those who prefer a walk on the mild side. Vegetarian options may also appear in the form of a veggie burger or mushroom omelet. Traditionally, Kincaid's has been a great place for wild salmon from the waters of British Columbia or even the Copper River of Alaska. With recent declines in yields for Pacific salmon, it has been more common recently to see Chilean salmon on the menu. Whatever its origin, the salmon can be simply grilled or presented in more elaborate preparations such as a king salmon burger (right photo below) replete with chunky artichoke relish and bright lettuces. The fries, one possible accompaniment, are crisp and thin, but lack the skin-on panache of the best fries.

Beverages include a decent selection of draft beers, a full bar with various this-and-that "tinis" and cosmopolitans, and a substantial wine list with emphasis on California and Oregon. Among the non-alcoholic choices, the strawberry lemonade, fresh and served with unlimited refills, is dependable choice on a hot summer day. The atmosphere at Kincaid's is somewhat clubby -- with dark wood and paintings of Arizona scenes on the wall. At the same time, abundant natural light brightens the room and relaxes the atmosphere. Children are accommodated via high chairs, boosters, and a special menu. In a smart move during a severe recession, the restaurant offers a variety of special deals, including a variety of lunch specials available for under $10 in the bar only. Kincaid's may be a link in a chain, but Downtown Phoenix has one more worthwhile dining choice because of its presence.

2 S. 3rd St., Phoenix, AZ 85004 | Map
(602) 340-0000
http://www.kincaids.com