Com Tam Thuan Kieu

"If it ain't broke, don't fix it." We've all heard that saying, originally attributed to Carter Administration budget chief Bert Lance back in the '70s. When it comes to Mesa Vietnamese restaurant Com Tam Thuan Kieu, Lance's now famous statement might be reworked as "Even if it is broke, don't fix it," for this restaurant specializes in broken rice dishes, a facet of southeast Asian cooking often overlooked as diners have rushed to embrace pho and bahn mi. What's broken rice? Essentially, it's fractured grains of rice. Up to a quarter of all rice grains end up cracked during the harvesting and refinement process. In the U.S., these broken grains have traditionally been used in the production of beer or dog food, but in Vietnam, they're a specialty in their own right.

Broken rice cooks differently due to the smaller size and irregular shapes of the grains. It's stickier, nuttier, and pairs with different foods than standard, intact rice grains. Com tam, as broken rice is known in Vietnamese, is not a good table rice to use in soaking up rich curry or stir-fry sauces. Instead, it seems to match well with simple presentations featuring grilled meats, fried eggs, and salads on the side. Many Vietnamese restaurants feature a few broken rice dishes as one section of their menus, but Com Tam Thuan Kieu may very well be the first in the Phoenix Metro Area to build its menu and even its name around this innovative use of grain that might normally be wasted or considered a byproduct.

Com Tam Thuan Kieu is among the growing cluster of restaurants inside Mekong Plaza, the shopping center with a Vietnamese flavor that has taken over the old Target store site on the southwest corner of Dobson and Main in west Mesa. The location is just a quarter mile west of the Sycamore / Main station, although the pedestrian access to Mekong Plaza could stand some improvement. The restaurant occupies one of two high-profile spots at the shopping center's main entrance. As customers head inside toward the flagship Mekong Market for groceries, they're likely to be tempted by noodle soups at unPhogettable on the left and broken rice dishes at Com Tam Thuan Kieu on the right. The two restaurants complement each other more than they compete.

The menu is formidable with nearly 200 entrees listed in Vietnamese, Chinese, and English. Despite the volume of choices, it's actually pretty easy to navigate in a step-by-step process. The first order of business is to choose the carbohydrate which will form the foundation of the meal. Obviously, broken rice dominates the menu with most options -- over 70 of them, but there are alternatives, including red rice (right photo below) -- not so much a distinct grain but really more a type of fried rice, and many bun (vermicelli) dishes. In an apparent non-compete arrangement with unPhogettable, there's no rice noodle soup, but there are a few varieties of mi, or egg noodle soup, and even soup made with udon, a noodle more familiar in Japanese cooking. These options are all worth exploring, but first-timers should probably embrace the restaurant's specialty and order a broken rice dish.

Once the base grain is chosen, the next step is to top it. In most cases, that means pork, chicken, or shrimp in any number of configurations. The pork can take the form of a pork chop or julienned meat. The chicken is usually grilled and comes out moist and flavorful. The shrimp are sometimes charbroiled and served whole, but crustaceans are also used a filling for egg rolls and tofu skins. The bean curd wrappers around shrimp paste are delicious but seem to be about the extent of tofu's appearance on the menu here. With the exception of a dish of plain vermicelli patties accompanied by a table salad of lettuce, herbs, and cucumbers, there are really no meatless dishes on the menu. Anyone seeking a meal not so meaty would probably be better off ordering a bowl of veggie pho across the hall.

In addition to the seemingly infinite entree selection, there are various egg rolls and spring rolls (center photo below) available as starters. All appetizers are accompanied by appropriate dipping sauces, and the entrees always come with a bowl of light fish sauce flavored with a fresh spring onion. Other condiments, including hot chili paste, are found at each table, but unlike most pho places, Com Tam Thuan Kieu offers no bottles of the ubiquitous Huy Fong "rooster" brand of sriracha sauce. The beverages are typical of Vietnamese restaurants and include various forms of tea, iced coffee, smoothies, lemonade, and fresh squeezed orange juice boosted with a little sugar. There is no liquor license, although it might be possible to BYOB some beer from the neighboring Mekong Market. Ask first to be sure. When the restaurant first opened Com Tan Thuan Kieu was cash-only, but now accepts Visa and MasterCard. The atmosphere is casual and clean, the service is friendly and quick, and it's fine to bring adventurous kids here.

66 S. Dobson Rd. #141, Mesa, AZ 85202 Map
(480) 668-5959