Lola Coffee (Uptown Location)

February 13, 2012 Update: Lola Uptown has recently been sold and is now known as "Citizen Espresso Bar."

In May 2009, the original Coffee Plantation on Mill Avenue in Tempe closed after just over two decades of operation. The sad end of an era was motivated more by leasing shenanigans at the Centerpoint development than anything else, but the event also confirmed a recent trend: Although coffeehouse culture in the metro area may have first burgeoned in Tempe, it is now decidedly stronger in Central Phoenix. The Central Coffee Corridor is apparently far from saturated, though, as evidenced by the 2009 opening of two new coffeehouses in Uptown. One is an outpost of the Dutch Brothers chain. Because the emphasis there is on the convenience of the drive-thru, there's little coffeehouse atmosphere. For both good coffee and a welcoming gathering place, the other choice, Lola Coffee, is the place to be right now in Uptown Phoenix.

Lola is part of a funky little shopping center at the northwest corner of Central and Highland, just a quarter mile south of the Central / Camelback light rail station. The plaza has undergone a lot of changes lately with the departure of retailers like Haus, Little Artika, Oliver & Annie, and Movies on Central. Instead, the focus has shifted toward a mix of shops, dining, and third spaces via the arrival of an upscale apparel consignment store, Hula's Modern Tiki, and Lola Coffee. Lola maintains the theme of cool, contemporary design common throughout the shopping center. There's plenty of illumination from the many windows, but also an interesting mix of lighting incorporating a chandelier and contemporary fixtures. Colors are varied but subdued, with mint green seats on the stools along a counter facing Central Avenue.

The look, the music, and the feel are all not too far removed from Lux a quarter mile to the south. That's not surprising since Lola is owned by Daniel Wayne, one of the founders of both Lux and Lola Tapas. Given this history, comparisons between Lola and Lux are inevitable. Both have fresh baked goods on display at the counter. Both offer free wifi and a mix of lounge seating and work areas. Both serve most beverages in real ceramic mugs when a customer orders "for here." Both play a deliberately offbeat selection of music. The differences, then? For one, Lola's interior allows a lot more natural light, something generally available at Lux only when sitting at the picnic tables outside. Second, Lola feels less crowded and less cluttered than Lux. Of course, much of that effect may come from Lola's newness. Given time, it may be just as packed as its peer nearby.

The beverage list is streamlined with about a dozen choices on the chalkboard. Beyond basic coffee, espresso, and cappuccino, look for specialty drinks that blend coffee with flavors that are sweet but not sickeningly so. Cafe Borgia blends coffee with chocolate and orange; the Matador replaces the citrus with cinnamon. Both drinks can be accessorized with an espresso whipped cream, a worthwhile indulgence. These drinks are artistic in appearance, but even basic lattes are enhanced with leaves, hearts, or other designs created by the baristas. For tea drinkers, Lola also delivers. The tea comes in sachets rather than standard bags. That means larger pieces of tea leaves with better flavor. The Earl Grey has an unusually vigorous Bergamot flavor, and the Darjeelling is light, golden, and refreshing.

To match the drink options, Lola has an array of baked good always available. These are not mass-produced pastries in plastic wrap. Instead, Lola has brought Danielle Librera on board as its resident baker. Librera is best known for her Sweet Pea Bakery at the south end of Downtown. Although Sweet Pea's retail shop has closed, Librera's work for Lola adds another level of appeal to the coffee house experience. For a sweet, rich experience, try the coffee cake, which mixes a crumbly top and a blueberry filling. Scones come in both sweet and savory varieties. Almond and cranberry are not surprising flavors, but a parmesan scone is an innovative alternative. For breakfast, ciabatta toast and a daily tart are good options.

At this point, both Daniel and Danielle are making Lola work with a complementary mix of quality drinks and snacks. The main complaint heard has been the shop's hours, especially the 7 PM closing time from Monday until Thursday. Hours stretch until 10 on Friday and Saturday, but the restricted hours leave Lola at a disadvantage the rest of the week. Slowly, we're seeing a trend toward later hours among Phoenix coffee house with Unlimited Coffee on Glendale Avenue open until midnight and Dolce Espresso on Camelback now open 24 hours on weekends. Given that trend, it might seem logical to expect later hours at Lola, but only if that can be accomplished without a loss of the high level of quality that exists today. For now, enjoy Lola during the day and on weekend nights. It's a different scene than the Coffee Plantation was at its prime, but Lola is a welcome addition to Phoenix coffeehouse culture.

4700 N. Central Ave., Phoenix, AZ 85012 | Map
(602) 265-5652