Hurry 4 Curry

The Arizona Center has a history of playing it safe as a fortress of suburban thinking in the middle of Phoenix's Downtown. International dining options there have seldom been much more bold than Mexican, Italian, and an outlet of the ubiquitous "My Big Fat Greek Restaurant." That's why the Arizona Center is an unlikely, but most welcome, venue for a new experiment with quick service Indian food. Hurry 4 Curry is the name of this new venture, and it's a relatively uncommon concept that offers half a dozen or so popular Indian entrees with an eye toward casual eating on the go. Sure, there has been food court curry before, but the trend has never caught on the way fast Chinese and Mexican food has. It will be interesting to see how it plays at the Arizona Center.

Hurry 4 Curry is easy to miss. The small shop is tucked between its larger neighbors, 1130 and Mi Amigo's, in the heart of the Arizona Center, roughly halfway between the Van Buren / Central Avenue (northbound) and Van Buren / 1st Avenue (southbound) stations and the 3rd St. / Washington (westbound) and the 3rd St. / Jefferson (eastbound) stations. A colorful sign proclaiming the restaurant's name is about the only indication of the restaurant's identity. That's not to say that Hurry 4 Curry should be full of Indian restaurant cliches, but it could benefit from a little more warmth and a little more linkage to its culture of origin. The place has a high-tech feel, with touchscreens for ordering, but the overall feel is one of sterility. Maybe some of that high-tech theme could carry over to flat panels showing some contemporary Bollywood or speakers playing bhangra music. Just a few little touches would enliven the restaurant and make it feel more welcoming without sacrificing the contemporary feel.

Those touchscreens are the first thing most customers see when ordering. In theory, they speed up ordering by allowing customers to run through their menu choices and pay via credit or debit card at the same time. A human at the pickup counter accepts cash from those who prefer to pay the old-fashioned way. In actual practice, it's unclear if traffic moves more quickly due to the touchscreens, particularly when one of them often seems out of order. Regulars seem to know how to key their orders in rapid format; often an employee is on hand to help any new customers needing assistance. No matter how quickly the orders are placed, the pickup procedure seems a little awkward, with customers clustering and waiting near the counter. Since the food takes a few minutes to prepare, a shift to a fast-casual approach, in which food is delivered to the table after being ordered at a counter, might be worth considering.

To its credit, Hurry 4 Curry keeps its menu short, simple, and fresh. The selections rotate, but on most days there are perhaps three chicken dishes, two vegetarian entrees, and one item featuring shrimp or fish. Typically, no red meat is on the menu. Look behind the counter and it's possible to see half a dozen yellow Dutch ovens on any given day. These are a good sign since they suggest curries and biryanis that are prepared fresh on site. Butter chicken is probably the best place for the uninitiated to start. It's a simple, rich, non-threathing dish for Indian food novices. Paired with basmati rice, it's probably something even the most fussy child would eat.

For those craving more intense flavors, some of the curries and masalas are better choices. To be sure, none are fiery like a good vindaloo, but some have a mild spice to them. Another improvement that Hurry 4 Curry could make is a condiment bar. Right now, only salt and pepper shakers are available. A self-service station with some hot sauce, a few chutneys, and maybe even a few achars (pickled condiments) would allow customers to customize meals to their own level of intensity. As with many Indian restaurants, salt sometimes plays a greater role than it should, particularly in the chana masala, a meatless dish featuring chickpeas in a tomato-based sauce. Another vegetarian entree, paneer jalfrezi (center photo below), does a much better job of keeping the salt in check and balancing the myriad flavor notes.

All meals come with a choice of either naan (right photo below) or basmati rice. The latter has always been good, and the former has improved greatly since the restaurant's opening. It's not quite as good as fresh-out-of-the-tandoor bread, but it's a perfectly acceptable choice. For 50 cents more, an upgrade to garlic naan is available. At this point, beverages are limited to fountain sodas and iced tea, although mango lassi and even beer and wine are all possible in the future. No desserts are currently on the menu. Given the restaurant's casual atmosphere, the restaurant should be fine for family dining. A high chair is on order; until then, parents can improvise. Unlike many Downtown restaurants with severly limited hours, Hurry 4 Curry is open every day from 10 AM until 9 PM.

400 E. Van Buren St., Phoenix, AZ 85004 | Map
(602) 252-8900
http://www.hurry4curry.com