House of Tricks

Almost every college campus has certain predictable restaurant types within a few blocks' walk. There's always a cheap burger-and-brew place, several "ethnic" restaurants, and at least one place with a charmingly alternative vibe and a mainly vegetarian menu. What missing from the list? There's also usually a restaurant that caters more to the faculty than the students. Said restaurant is usually also a place to go to with the parents when they visit campus. Arizona State University's version of this restaurant has long been the House of Tricks.

The House of Tricks has been around for more than two decades in a cottage on Seventh Street just north of the campus and three blocks from the Veterans Way / College Avenue light rail station. A second historic home next door was incorporated into the restaurant in 1994, expanding the restaurant's seating; however, on any given day, most customers are probably on the patio. House of Tricks is one of those rare restaurants at which the outdoor seating probably exceeds the number of chairs inside. That's possible because the restaurant's patio is one of the nicest in the metro area. Abundant mature trees provide plenty of shade in the summer, and fireplaces add a touch of warmth during those bone-chilling Phoenix winters.

The menu at Tricks is hard to pin down in terms of any specific national or cultural origin. It's a little bit Mediterranean, a little bit French, and a little Southwestern. This not really a place for a plain old burger and fries, but it's not a temple to extreme foodie adventurism either. Instead, the food takes aim at its target clientele of educated diners who have probably had at least some experience with international travel. Overall, there's a sense of balance in the menu with a quiche of the day, a stereotypically feminine dish if we are to believe the popular book from 1982, matched against several hearty red meat dishes. Of course, there's a whole range of options in between with emphasis on fish, poultry, and vegetarian dishes.

Among the starters on the lunch menu, the Mediterranean tapas platter stands out for its flavor and variety. It's not all that different from the vegetarian combo platter offered at Phoenicia next door, but with a little more refinement and a more manageable portion size. The assemblage of feta, dolmas, ratatouille, hummus, tabouleh, cucumber salad, and pieces of flatbread is easily shared among a few friends, but it also makes an effective light entree for one. Other good choices include the warm goat cheese cake, which matches creamy chevre with both a tomato salsa and an olive tepanade, and the winter squash ravioli, another appetizer that can double as a small entree. At dinner, the food gets a little heartier, with first plates incorporating burrata, foie gras, scallops, and other more substantial ingredients depending on the season.

The entrees are where the lunch and dinner menus diverge even more. At lunch, expect big salads (albeit with more of a gourmet touch than Elaine Benes' favorite lunch), creative sandwiches, and some full-fledged main dishes, with nothing costing more than $15. The salmon flatbread sandwich is exemplary, with perfectly cooked fresh fish combined with light citrus and cilantro flavors in crisp bread. Lunch at Tricks may not be quite the bargain as at the nearby Chuckbox, but it's generally a better buy than the restaurant's attractive looks would suggest. Dinner entrees generally fall into the $20 - $30 range with some daily specials coming in at the high end. Expect lots of fresh fish, some pasta, but also a deft touch with beef and lamb.

The House of Tricks matches its eclectic menu with a diverse beverage selection. The wine list is truly global with unexpected offerings like sparkling wines from New Zealand and pinot grigio from Argentina. The reds leans toward pinot noirs, generally a good match for the salmon dishes always on the menu, but also include less familiar malbecs and tempranillos. There are always over two dozen selections by the glass, and since many are esoteric, the detailed descriptions on the wine list are helpful. The beer selection is also impressive. 8th Street Ale from nearby Four Peaks is the most local choice. It's matched with more exotic trappist ales and lambics from Belgium. Of course, there's Bud Light for anyone wanting to play it safe.

Service at Tricks is always friendly and usually responsive. The staff usually seem more prompt at lunch than at dinner and and more attentive outside than in. In other words, the patio at noon is the best place for a one-hour meal; eating inside at dinner may be better for a leisurely, romantic experience. Because Tricks is a sort of quiet oasis from the youthful energy of the nearby college scene, it's not an obvious choice for dining with young children. Still, the patio has a casual feel and would probably be okay for kids old enough to enjoy a good meal but too young to get into ASU.

114 E. 7th St., Tempe, AZ, 85281 | Map
(480) 968-1114
http://www.houseoftricks.com