Sam's Cafe

The Arizona Center's history from its 1990 opening to the present sometimes resembles the TV show Survivor. It seems like almost all businesses present at the beginning have gradually been voted off the island. Among the missing: Phoenix Live, an entertainment complex of several nightclubs; the entire second-floor food court; nationally known retailers like the Gap; and Lombardi's, a pleasant Italian restaurant.

One of the few veterans remaining from opening day is Sam's Cafe, a Southwestern restaurant that is one location in a loose chain of half a dozen eateries. Most sites operate under the name "Canyon Cafe," but someone named Sam lays claim to the two Phoenix locations at the Arizona Center and Biltmore Fashion Park. The former is located roughly halfway between the Van Buren / Central Avenue (northbound) and Van Buren / 1st Avenue (southbound) stations and the 3rd St. / Washington (westbound) and the 3rd St. / Jefferson (eastbound) stations.

Like the Arizona Center itself, Sam's Cafe generally caters to a clientele of convention attendees, Downtown event-goers, and nearby office workers. Urban hipsters are more likely to be found to the north in various small restaurants in converted houses, and the serious foodies will often seek Southwestern flavor at places like Richardson's outside of Downtown. That leaves Sam's Cafe in the position of presenting regional foods in a manner that neither frightens the uninitiated visitor nor offends the local aficionado. It's a tough balancing act, but the kitchen usually makes it work.

The L-shaped dining room and the bar are Southwestern in the sort of mild, generic manner of most local resorts. Soft colors predominate with plenty of earth tones and rough-hewn wood. The outdoor patio, seemingly as large as the dining room itself, is often the first choice of many customers due to its view of the Arizona Center gardens. Be prepared to talk over the waterfall and the ubiquitous birds, though.

All meals start with chips and salsa, a change implemented at some point roughly halfway through the restaurant's life. It used to be that breadsticks were served with an herb butter, but the chips are presumably a nod to those who expect a Southwestern restaurant to act like an everyday Mexican restaurant, or at least the Arizona / Sonora stereotype of a Mexican restaurant. If the provision of chips and salsa makes Sam's Cafe seem a little prosaic, be thankful for the variety in the bowl, including spice-dusted chips of various types, and the zip of the chipotle salsa accompanying it. There's a decent selection of margaritas, draft beer, and wine to quench any fire ignited by the smoky dip.

Sam's does well with starters, and a few put together strategically can actually function as a full meal, especially when combined with happy hour drink specials. There are two soups, a poblano chicken chowder and a tomato-based tortilla soup. The former is creamy; the latter is tangy. Both are both hearty enough to pair nicely with the Pueblo house salad. The spinach-and-portabello quesadilla (center photo below) and the Sedona spring rolls are two other good choices for anyone looking for a hefty appetizer.

Entrees are balanced between "Mex Mex," meaning those items that would not be out of place on a combo plate at a neighborhood Mexican restauant, and "Sam's Mex," which features slightly more inventive blends of Mexican, Native American, and other influences. Both categories depart slightly from the usual playbook. The chimichanga, for example, is full of the typical deep-fried goodness associated with this Arizona classic, but is made slightly less indulgent when paired with rice and salad greens.

Daily specials, often featuring seafood, are often worth exploring. A blackened tilapia filet with angel hair pasta (right photo below) works because the spicy coating augments the normally tame tilapia flavor. There are also pasta dishes, tacos, and sandwiches, and these choices are the best meatless options on the menu. A grilled vegetable pasta dish has been offered since day one. The al dente vegetables work nicely with the noodles, although the excessively salty sauce should be eaten sparingly.

Sam's is used to dealing with pre-event dining, so expect dishes to come out of the kitchen promptly. Unfortunately, they sometimes come out in such rapid fire fashion that the servers bring them to the wrong table. The result is an occasional awkward ballet of servers offering a dish to a table, retreating when told it does not match the table's order, and the moving along in an attempt to match the dish with the right table. It's not enough to make the meal unpleasant, but it is something to be aware of before digging into someone else's carnitas. Sam's has high chairs, a children's menu, and crayons for the little ones. It's a good choice for family dining, but parties with potentially noisy children are probably better off on the patio, where the din is enough to drown out most fussy moments.

455 N. 3rd St., Suite 114, Phoenix, AZ, 85004
(602) 252-3545
http://www.canyoncafe.com/azcenter.htm

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