Sunday, November 16, 2008

Chill Out Gelato Cafe

Why does the simple frozen dessert known as gelato inspire so much intrigue? A few years ago, Phoenix was shaken by the "Gelatogate" scandal in which unidentified parties tried to steal recipes from the renowned Arlecchino Gelateria. Ask the personnel at most other gelaterias about the origins of their product and the answer is likely to be ambiguous and evasive: "We mix it in the back," "It's made locally," etc. It seems that for the majority of gelaterias, there is shame in using a product made off-site or in relying on packaged gelato bases, even though both practices are widespread.

That's why the attitude at Chill Out Gelato Cafe, a newcomer to the Artisan Village development on Roosevelt Row, is as refreshing as the frozen treats served there. Chill Out, located just under half a mile east of the Roosevelt / Central Avenue station, doesn't try to obfuscate about the source of its gelato. Instead, the small shop is completely above board, even proud, in proclaiming that it sells Berto's gelato. Berto's is a locally-based maker of gelatos and sorbets and has long been a supplier to many Phoenix restaurants. Chances are that anyone who has ordered gelato from a dessert menu has eaten Berto's product. Even better for Berto's, Tesco, the British grocery giant, recently chose the company as its supplier for the store-brand gelatos and sorbets in its new Fresh and Easy stores.

So if Chill Out is completely overt - with several signs noting that it sells Berto's gelato -- is honesty the best policy, or is this a situation of "You can't handle the truth."? Fortunately, Jack Nicholson's rhetorical services aren't needed here. Chill Out accomplishes its limited mission of being Roosevelt Row's little gelateria that could. No one should approach this place expecting handcrafted gelato based on what is fresh from the farmer's market. Arlecchino fills that niche. Similarly, this is not the place to look for inventive, uncommon flavors. Sweet Republic, although not a gelateria, is the best venue for innovative ice cream. Still, Chill Out is a friendly shop for a cup or cone of the reliable Berto's product.

The shop is tiny -- like most of the Artisan Village storefronts. Eighteen flavors are displayed each day in an attractive display (center photo below) that dominates the store's interior. Bits of fresh fruit or cookie adorn many of the gelato tins, suggesting the flavors that lie within. The flavors themselves are recognizable and authentic, although not always high intensity. Berto's gelato often comes close to the borderline of being American-style ice cream, so expect a creamy, rich taste rather than, to use an oenophile's term, a fruit-forward approach. With that in mind, some of the best flavors are the ones that echo common desserts. The bananas foster gelato is one example.

Of course, there are light tastes, including fruit sorbets. Berries, mango (right photo below), and citrus fruits are often featured. Whether the choice is indulgent or lean, the serving style is elemental: cups or cones, both filled with generous scoops. Because of the shop's small size, sundaes, shakes, and other more elaborate preparations are not available. There are no toppings, either. A few prepared salads and lunch choices are in separate case off to the side, however. The seating is limited to one or two tables inside and out, with a few more seats available in the nearby Artisan Village courtyard. For the most part, Chill Out should be considered a place to stop for a quick gelato treat rather than a full-service ice cream parlor or sit-down restaurant.

The biggest frustration associated with Chill Out has been the shop's limited schedule. When the shop first opened, the shop was open only until 6 PM. Since then, hours have been extended to 9 PM, Tuesday through Saturday. On First Fridays, even later hours are the norm. That's still an earlier closing time than most Downtown residents and enthusiasts would like, but it's a small step in making Chill Out a viable choice for dessert after dinner elsewhere. Many nearby restaurants, including Sens, Carly's, PastaBar, Moira, and the Roosevelt, serve little, if anything, in the way of dessert, so a small gelateria within walking distance is a welcome stop after a meal a few blocks away.

610 E. Roosevelt St., Phoenix, AZ, 85004 | Map
(602) 254-0067

Reviews from Other Sites:

Chill Out Gelato Cafe on Urbanspoon
Chow
Yelp

1 comments:

Tony said...

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