The Stockyards

Ask almost any Arizona native about the Five C's, and you'll most likely hear a recitation of "copper, cattle, cotton, citrus, and climate" as the traditional components of the state's economy. In recent years some of those industries have been eclipsed by newer C's such as "credit cards," "call centers," and "condominium conversions." Still, the Five C's of the 20th Century fueled Phoenix's explosive growth, and all retain an important role in defining the area's character and heritage.

When it comes to one of those C's, cattle, the typical Phoenician probably gives little thought to the source of the beef on his or her plate, even though a major feedlot once existed at the City's eastern end near the Tempe border. The Stockyards restaurant, located along Washington Street approximately three-quarters of a mile east of the 44th St. / Washington station, is one of the few extant reminders of those days. This steakhouse sits on the site of the original Phoenix stockyards and does its best to remind guests of the role cattle once played in the local economy.

The Stockyards originated before statehood, back in 1954, when it was built as part of the administrative complex for the Tovrea Land and Cattle Company, a major force in Phoenix business circles at the time. For decades it remained a premier destination, but the restaurant's appeal faded slowly as the feedlot closed, traffic shifted to the 202 Freeway, and Washington Street lost its role as a major artery between the downtowns of Phoenix and Tempe. The restaurant's resurrection occurred in 2005 when new owners bought the place, closed it briefly, and brought it to life with a restoration that freshened the eatery without compromising its historic essence.

The renovated Stockyards still has a distinctly old school look. The doors are copper, and the restaurant's rooftop sign looks like the lettering used in cattle branding. Inside, one dining room leads to another, but all have Western art on the walls and wheel-like chandeliers hanging from the ceilings. The adjoining 1889 saloon is darker than the dining rooms and offers a selection of "saloon snacks" to go with happy hour drinks. Like the decor, the menu is decidedly traditional, but not stuffy. Vintage menus decorate the restaurant's main corridor, and one can only wish 1954 prices were still in effect. Instead, the current menu offers prices that are reasonable by 21st Century standards with a few updates to keep the food interesting.

Appetizers start with classics like shrimp cocktail and Oysters Rockefeller. Thing get more interesting with calf fries, a certain part of the bull's anatomy that tastes "just like chicken." Less meaty and more contemporary is a portabella mushroom stack with goat cheese. The daily soups are hearty and can be paired in soup and salad combinations at lunch. Smoked chicken chowder combines large chunks of white meat with a thick, flavorful broth. In addition to the rotating list of daily soups, a steak soup is always available. The house salad (center photo below) is simple, but effective. Mesclun greens, julienned carrots, cucumbers, onions, and cherry tomatoes combine with a pleasant vinaigrette in a crunchy, satisfying bowl of greenery that may offset some of the guilt associated with an indulgent steak dinner.

The steaks are well-prepared classics and don't require that customers obtain a second job before ordering them. Prime rib is a big deal here -- either on its own or in a lunch time "Western Dip" sandwich with au jus. New York strip also appears both solo and in an open-faced steak sandwich (right photo below). For more exotic red meat, the Stockyards often features specials based on elk, venison, or wild boar. Of course, there all alternatives for diners who want a lighter option. Chicken puts in an inevitable appearance, and salmon and trout are the seafood choices. The former appears to be Atlantic salmon, so it's not going to burst with flavor like a sliver of Copper River fish straight out of Alaska in June. Still, it's expertly cooked with an accompanying generous serving of whipped potatoes and a vegetable side dish. The trout is equally good with cornmeal crust and a rice pilaf on the side. At lunch, there's even a vegetarian wrap on the menu.

All dinners come with a hearty breadbasket mixing cornbread and biscuits, and most entrees include starch or vegetables on the side. That's a nice contrast with the completely a-la-carte approach at many high-end steakhouses. The beverage selection includes a full bar, a solid wine list, and a reasonably good selection of draft beers, including Alaskan Amber. The Stockyards accommodates families with a children's menu, crayons, and high chairs. The atmosphere may be a little upscale for messy toddlers, but the multiple dining rooms make it possible for parties with potentially noisy kids to eat at some distance from other parties. The separate rooms within the restaurant also make the Stockyards a good place for group events and private parties.

5009 E. Washington St., Phoenix, AZ, 85034 Map
(602) 273-7378
http://www.stockyardsrestaurant.com/