Pino's is just down the street from a potential competitor, a franchise of national chain Z Pizza. The two seem to coexist, however, because they have such different specialties. Z Pizza is all about California-style pizza with unconventional toppings and the option of whole wheat crust. Pino's is aligned with the opposite coast; its pizza is decidedly closer to New York style. The crust is not cracker thin, but it's slender enough to be folded, and each pie has a slight sheen of oil on top. The to-go menus even show a sort of triptych depicting Italy, New York, and Arizona.
At lunch, Pino's is fast-casual in its approach. Visitors order at the counter and have about half a dozen choices of pre-made pizzas by the slice available. The pizza toppings on these specimens are generally meaty and traditional. Expect plenty of sausage or pepperoni, but little in the way of barbecued chicken or potato. That's okay, though, because Pino's entire menu is available at lunch. Calzones, whole pizzas, sandwiches, salads, and pasta dishes are all made to order, even if they have to be picked up at the counter.
Later in the day, Pino's switches to a full-service set-up for dinner. The pizza by-the-slice vanishes, but everything else on the menu stays the same. The pizza comes in 10 and 16-inch versions. There are half a dozen standard pies, ranging from the most basic margherita to a pasta pizza thats sounds like a definite carbohydrate overload. In between those extremes, look for a pizza with all vegetable toppings, another with all meat toppings, a white pizza, and a four-cheese model. Custom pizzas with user-defined topping combinations are always possible.
The pizza isn't going to put Chris Bianco out of business, but it's hearty and reliable. What makes Pino's really likeable, though, is the array of other options for consumption before, after, or in place of pizza. The salads all start with crisp lettuces and add meats, cheeses, and vegetables in generous portions. The mixed greens salad (center photo below) is the most straightforward for anyone interested in some pre-pizza leaf-eating. The caprese is an especially nice take on a classic, with generous slices of fresh mozzarella with tomatoes on a bed of greens.
Some of the pizza alternatives showcase the kitchen nicely. The calzones are just right in terms of texture. A slightly crisp crust hides plump pieces of cheese inside; the overall melt is better due to the use of slices, rather than shredded mozzarella. The basic cheese calzone is fine by itself with a side of warm marinara sauce for dipping, but the full range of pizza toppings can also be folded into the interior of a calzone. If nothing else, spring for the fresh garlic, which adds an exhilirating burst of flavor.
Pasta entrees include half a dozen regular dishes, as well as one or two specials each day. Among the standard dishes, spaghetti alla capri and spaghetti marinara are good light choices. The former combines noodles with mozzarella, fresh tomato, garlic, basil, and olive oil; the later is self-explanatory. Richer choices include the penne primavera, which is anointed in a pink sauce combining tomato and cream, and penne boscaiola, which features both ham and sausage in the ultimate carnivore's pasta dish. Among the rotating specias, the shrimp fra diavolo has the right combination of al dente texture and a slighty red pepper burn.
After dinner, most dessert choices originate off-site, but the house-made cannoli is good for an intense burst of sweetness. Another alternative is a quick stroll to the nearby Pink Spot for ice cream. Beverages at Pino's include bottled beer, a small but decent wine selection, fountain sodas, and a few Italian sodas and sparkling waters. Pino's is fine for kids and has high chairs readily available.
Despite all this pizza and pasta goodness, the main frustration centered around Pino's is the restaurant's limited hours: 10 AM - 2 PM for lunch and 5 PM - 8 PM for dinner, and those hours, limited as they may be, exist only on weekdays. Pino's is closed all weekend long, a choice that reflects the deserted-after-dark character of some parts of Midtown, but not the seven-days-a-week dining needs of nearby residents in historic homes or new condominiums along Central.
139 W. Thomas Rd., Phoenix, AZ, 85013
(602) 279-3237
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6 comments:
Great review! I have passed this place up more than once on occasions where all I had was a credit/debit card and no cash. I've heard rumor, however, that they'll take a card if a large grand total is involved.
Thanks for commenting. The last few times I've eaten at Pino's, I've seen a hand-lettered sign at the cash register saying that credit and debit cards are accepted only for purchases over $25. That practice is almost certainly a violation of the restaurant's Visa / Mastercard merchant agreement, but given all of Pino's good qualities, I don't think I want to be the one to rat on them.
Pino's pizza is very tasty.
I would recommend it to anyone!
As long as you don't mind the Pizza Na#i. They do have a cash machine right next to the cashier so no problems if you don't have any cash.
We just ate at Pino's. For the last three weeks, they have been open 11 am-9pm on Saturdays. I am not sure if they are going to keep these hours permanently, but it is worth a call if you want to have a great calzone one Saturday evening.
I've heard good things about this place as well; however, as the other readers have stated, I also keep passing it by due to the credit card policy. It's the 21st century; who carries cash anymore?
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