Cheuvront

Lord Byron, the British romantic poet, once wrote during an extended period of travel in the Mediterranean that “I …mean on my return to cut all my dissolute acquaintance and leave off wine and ‘carnal company,’ and betake myself to politics and Decorum.” Byron’s words suggest that politics and wine do not go together. While that may be true for some teetotalers in the Arizona State Legislature, Ken Cheuvront, a Democratic state senator representing Central Phoenix’s District 15, has managed since 2003 to balance his political career with a wine bar and restaurant on Central Avenue just across the street from the Burton Barr Central Library and steps from the McDowell / Central Avenue station.

Cheuvront occupies a ground-floor space in the Artisan Lofts mixed-use development. There’s a patio facing Central, and the interior space has a sparse, quasi-industrial look. Stained concrete floors and metal tables create a modern feel, although they also result in a fairly high noise level during peak hours. During the day, plenty of natural light comes in through the windows and creates an airy sense of openness. After dark, Cheuvront has a more intimate feel with curtains breaking the room into smaller spaces and subtitled foreign films showing on a screen in the center of the action.

The restaurant, like its name, is simple and direct in its approach. The modestly sized restaurant is all about wine and the foods that pair with it. That means a lot of small plates, dishes designed to be shared, and, of course, plenty of cheese. Cheese plates are available in single or three-cheese varieties, all paired with bread, nuts, and fruit. Cheese also assumes crucial role in the international plates, which come in American, Spanish, Italian, and French varieties. These platters make perfect dishes for several guests to share at a table.

Cheese also plays a crucial role in the various appetizers and entrees. A caprese salad (center photo below) works well with squares of house-made mozzarella, slightly saltier than the norm, paired with fresh basil and tomato. In cooked items, the results are mixed. A mac-and-cheese entree is satisfying with a creamy interior and a crunchy top augmented with bread crumbs. The lasagna, on the other hand, seems a little out of balance. The ricotta overwhelms the dish; more sauce, pasta, and vegetables would keep the balance right and produce a more flavorful version of this classic.

Of course, it’s not all about cheese at Cheuvront. A daily soup is often an effective start to a meal. Baked tomato is rich and tangy. A chowder of shrimp and corn has a velvety broth punctuated with chunks of carrot and potato. The soups are offered in a daily rotation. Salads are a lighter option with choices like Caesar and nicoise in entrée-sized portions.

At the other end of the spectrum, Cheuvront’s kitchen is serious enough about food to offer multi-course meals, whether from the regular menu or during special events like Arizona Restaurant Week and frequent wine tastings and dinners. Some of those dinners are organized around a single winemaker; others have a theme that combines the output of multiple vintners. Cheuvront has also been using its big screen to show the 2008 presidential debates.

Although Cheuvront now has a full bar and offers various avant-garde martinis, draft beer, mojitos, the place still revolves around wine. Expect to find all-stars like Kim Crawford sauvignon blanc, a fruity, herbal New Zealand white, side by side with more esoteric offerings. Customers who want to explore wine in more depth should consider the wine flights (right photo below). At many wine bars, three small pours of related wines are offered, but the identities of the wines involved are forgotten the second they’re poured. At Cheuvront, the glasses are placed on a sheet with the names and characteristics of each wine. The sheet reminds guests of what they’re drinking and can even go home as a sort of CliffsNotes for the budding oenophile.

Although there’s a lot to like about Cheuvront, there are a few issues to navigate when contemplating a visit. The first is the restrooms. There are two of them, both with grey doors and no gender indications whatsoever. Based on the inclusion of a urinal, the one on the right appears to be the men’s room, but given the uncertain markings, both restrooms appear to have become de facto unisex, recalling a trend popularized when Ally McBeal was on the air.

The second issue is the restaurant’s hours, which are not always accurately reflected on the Web site. A recent summer closure on Sundays left two would-be guests staring at a locked door one night. For best results, call ahead to confirm hours. Summer slowdowns aside, Cheuvront is usually open seven days a week and offers good discounts on drinks and appetizers during happy hour and then again during reverse happy hour later in the evening. As at most wine bars, it’s probably best to leave young children at home.

1326 N. Central Ave., Phoenix, AZ, 85004
(602) 307-0022
http://www.cheuvronts.com/

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