Tuesday, July 8, 2008

Hap's Pit Barbecue

One of the unwritten rules of barbecue is that the quality of the food is inversely related to the prestige and decor of the location. In other words, a roadside shack is usually going to produce better food than a restaurant in a modern building in a desirable neighborhood. In its early days, Hap's confirmed that rule by offering some of the best barbecue in Phoenix from a trailer located on a used car lot at 24th Street and Jefferson. Since then, Hap's has outgrown its shabby-chic quarters and moved into two permanent locations: One on Indian School Road on the west side and the other on Washington Street at 48th Street. The latter site is approximately half a mile east of the 44th St. / Washington Station.

The Washington Street restaurant is not upscale, but it is located in a modern strip mall in an office district that seems more buttoned-down than down-home. Since the move to this location, Hap's has gotten some mixed reviews and has occasionally branched out from its humble beginnings with newfangled menu items such as the interestingly spelled "raps," barbecued meat wrapped in a tortilla. Still, the basic Hap's experience seems to have survived the migration intact. Meat, all of it hand-rubbed with a spice mixture, is front and center here, and the various platters, sandwiches, and sides add up to a St. Louis / Midwestern take on barbecue that goes head-to-head with the nearby original location of Honey Bear's.

Sandwiches and dinner platters can be built around beef brisket, pulled pork, pulled chicken, ham, hot links, and even lamb. The last item is hard to find at most barbecue restaurants and an interesting addition to Hap's menu. There are also pork ribs and half chicken platters available. All the meats seem to have the essential balance of barbecue flavors, combining sweet, tart, and even slightly hot notes in a seamless blend from the initial spice rub to the generous application of sauce. The generous flavor is not used to hide inferior cuts of meat, however. The chicken, for example, is a nice mix of white and dark meat straight from a smoked bird.

Hap's offers a mixture of classic and original sides. Veteran barbecue accompaniments include beans, a mix of dark kidneys and white beans with bits of ground beef and bacon, and coleslaw. One of the best ways to enjoy the latter is by ordering a sandwich "Tennessee style" (center photo below). The slaw is placed inside the bun on top of the meat. It may sound unusual, but the sweet, mild coleslaw blends well with the more strongly flavored meat inside the sandwich. Hap's also offers a more offbeat side in the form of a broccoli-and-cheese casserole, a Midwestern touch that fits unexpectedly well with the down-home menu.

Desserts include an assortment of fruit cobblers, and an indulgent pecan pie (right photo below). There are also brownies at the counter most days. There's no liquor license at Hap's, but the restaurant offers a selection of bottled root beers in addition to the usual fountain drinks. The atmosphere, although downright spiffy compared to the old trailer at 24th and Jefferson, is still quite casual. Hap's is a place to order at the counter and listen for one's name to be called a few minutes later. Seating is available at four-top tables and at a counter along one wall. Although Hap's location in a business-oriented area of Washington means it's not typically a family destination, there is a high chair available. Hap's is open for lunch and early dinner on weekdays and just for lunch on Saturdays. There are currently no Sunday hours.

4801 E. Washington St., Phoenix, AZ, 85034
(602) 267-0181
http://www.hapsbbq.com

Reviews from Other Sites:

Hap's Pit Barbecue on Urbanspoon

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