The Dhaba

In 25 years, Indian restaurants in America have gone from rarity to cliche. It used to be that the cuisine of south Asia was so exotic and difficult to find that any Indian restaurant would do. Now, there are Indian restaurants in strip malls throughout the area, and with just a few exceptions, they all seem the same. The menu is usually a sort of generic northern Indian blend, and the names of dishes and their preparations vary little, if at all. The inevitable lunch buffet closes the deal.

Thankfully, some new concepts in Indian restaurants are emerging. There are now several southern Indian restaurants in town, and Bombay Spice is attempting to create enthusiasm for healthful Indian-inspired food at two locations on the north side of Phoenix. The creators of the Dhaba, a new restaurant in Tempe, have based their own innovative concept on an unlikely source: truck stops and roadside diners. No one should assume, however, that the Dhaba is anything like the legendary Mel's Diner from the Alice television show with a little curry powder mixed in with the burgers and coffee.

Instead, the Dhaba serves a type of inexpensive and hearty food from the Punjab region of India and Pakistan. There, dhabas are a type of roadside restaurant serving comfort food in informal surroundings. Tempe's take on a dhaba lies along the mile of Apache Boulevard between McClintock and the 101 Freeway, halfway between the Smith-Martin / Apache and McClintock / Apache stations. The restaurant is the newest part of a shopping center known as India Plaza, where groceries, DVDs, and other south Asian goods are for sale. India Plaza is one of the bright spots on a stretch of Apache now beginning to experience intensive redevelopment as light rail runs in its center and new apartment complexes replace old trailer parks and seedy motels.

The Dhaba's look is spiffier than the original roadside concept, but still true to its roots. The wooden plank eating surfaces of traditional dhabas have been replaced with textured dark wood tables. Even the high chairs for young children match the look. Metal plates and drinking vessels augment the rustic feel. Stylish light fixtures overhead create a gentle red glow suggestive of food cooked in a tandoor, a traditional clay oven that is popular in Punjabi cooking.

The look is not coincidental. Tandoori foods are prominent on the Dhaba's menu, with skewers of chicken, lamb, shrimp, and fish available. Even the vegetarian option, cubes of paneer cheese with vegetables, benefits from the distinctive touch of the clay oven. The plain-tasting cheese, often viewed as the Indian equivalent of tofu, benefits from the marinade of spices and yogurt, making it a worthy competitor to tandoori favorites such a chicken tikka. Speaking of chicken, that particular white meat is common on the Dhaba's menu, along with vegetarian, shrimp, and fish dishes. Red meat fans, however, should be prepared to enjoy lamb or goat. In deference to both Hindu and Islamic teachings, the Dhaba offers neither beef nor pork; in fact, all meat served is halal.

Besides the tandoori items, the are numerous dals and curries, along with rice dishes and breads ideal for soaking up the flavorful sauces. There are even some wraps (right photo below), basically sandwiches in which meats or vegetables are rolled into a generous piece of naan, a type of flatbread popular in northern Indian and Pakistan. With the exception of the thalis (center photo below), or complete meals, offered in both meat and vegetarian versions, everything is a la carte, but since nothing on the menu exceeds $10, it's hard to run up a big tab at the Dhaba.

Adventurous eaters should not limit themselves to the main dishes at the Dhaba. Some of the most interesting cooking is among the selection of chaat, or Indian snack foods, most of them less than $5. Some items, such as the samosa, are both familiar and delicious. Others are more of a departure for those who have not grown up with south Asian food. The ambala tiki chaat features potato pancakes under an intense sauce of chick peas, tamarind chutney, mint, and yogurt. It works well as an appetizer and demands little or no learning curve from customers accustomed to spicy foods. Bombay bhel puri, on the other hand, may be more of an acquired taste for some local diners. The texture of this particular item can only be described as like Rice Krispies, although the trio of accompanying sauces adds needed flavor and moisture to the dish.

Right now, the only let-down about the Dhaba is that several items listed on the menu are not yet available. This extends to several of the desserts, approximately half the items on the kid's menu, and the fresh fruit juices. Drinks are currently limited to canned soft drinks, complimentary Masala chai, and several varieties of lassi, a type of yogurt drink. The beverage selection should expand in the near future once the Dhaba obtains its pending license to serve wine and beer. Maybe by then, the missing foods will either be available or deleted from the menu. The Dhaba is open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Although the dining room has a nice look, the restaurant is casual in feel and accommodating of children.

1872 E. Apache Blvd., Tempe AZ 85281 Map
(480) 446-2824
http://www.the-dhaba.com/

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