Honey Bear's BBQ

In a city full of transplants from all over the rest of the United States, regional food discussions quickly become heated. Pizza aficionados debate the differences between New York thin crust and Chicago deep dish varieties. Likewise, barbecue fans spar over the minutiae of Texas-style beef brisket versus North Carolina pulled pork. Honey Bear's, one of the veteran players in the Phoenix barbecue market, leans toward the Memphis style at its three locations. The Van Buren location is the original one and is located just a quarter mile north of the light rail line; unfortunately, the wide spacing of stations along Washington Street, along with the general lack of a pedestrian-friendly atmosphere in the area, make the original location hard to reach via rail. In contrast, the newer Midtown location (left photo below) along Central Avenue just a block south of the Thomas / Central Avenue station has a little less of the authentic roadside barbecue atmosphere, but is more accessible.

"You don't need teeth to eat our meat," and "Put a little south in your mouth" -- Those are the twin slogans of Honey Bear's, and together they present a reasonably accurate picture of Honey Bear's food. The meat is tender -- whether it's beef (center photo below), chicken, or pork. All three overflow the bun used in any variety of barbecue sandwich. The pork is probably the best choice based on both texture and flavor. For those who like sausage, the hot links sandwich is another option. Ribs and chicken platters round out the menu. There are also day-of-the week specials such as fried catfish with a spicy breading every Thursday night and during the day every Friday.

Of course, good barbecue demands good sides, and most of what Honey Bear's offers fits the barbecue theme. The coleslaw is traditional -- white, more sweet than tangy, and moist. It's good either on its own or put inside a sandwich. Corn on the cob is dependably satisfying. The cowbro beans, on the other hand, may be a surprise for those expecting a full serving of legumes, since they contain as much sausage as beans. The Midtown Honey Bear's location also offers fries, something not available at the original location on Van Buren. The fries are perfectly good, but seem more a concession to popular tastes than an authentic barbecue side. Of course, there's also a salad available for those making a vain quest to remain health-conscious in a barbecue restaurant, but it's mostly iceberg lettuce and clearly outside the restaurant's area of strength.

Since a meal at Honey Bear's is bound to be indulgent, many customers may wish to go all the way and order one of the restaurant's two desserts: peach cobbler and sweet potato pie (right photo below). The pie is straightforward and absolutely delicious. The cobbler has nice peach flavor, but it may seem a little fluid to customers used to crustier, crispier cobblers. Drinks include sodas, iced tea, bottled beer, and a very limited wine selection. Service is fast-food style; order at the counter and pick up the food there when called. Honey Bear's also has an extensive catering business and concessions at the new University of Phoenix Stadium, home to the Arizona Cardinals.

2824 N. Central Ave., Phoenix, AZ, 85004
(602) 279-7911
http://www.honeybearsbbq.com

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