Cafe Istanbul and Market

The legendary Orient Express train ran from Paris in the west to Istanbul in the east. Coincidentally, along Apache Boulevard heading toward the eastern end of the Phoenix light rail line, just steps from from the Dorsey / Apache Boulevard Station, there is Cafe Istanbul. The similarities end in the restaurant's name, however. Despite the inclusion of Turkey's largest city in its name, Cafe Istanbul is not a Turkish restaurant. Instead, its food is mostly Lebanese.

The menu begins with choices similar to those found at nearby Tempe Middle Eastern restaurants Haji-Baba and Phoenicia. The appetizers include well-known mezes such as hummus, baba ghanoush, and dolmas. There's also the inevitable lentil soup. Cafe Istanbul's is a little thinner than many others, but the low viscosity is offset by bits of pasta in the broth. Those looking for more adventure at the start of the menu can sample souju, a spicy Armenian beef sausage, or lamb tongue sauteed in garlic.

Entree selections also combine the classics with more esoteric choices. The chicken shawarma is nicely moist and flavorful; the rotisserie meat is available in either a pita wrap (center photo below) or as part of platter with soup or salad, rice or vegetables, and pita. There are numerous red meat options in term of beef and lamb shawarma, kofta, kibbe, shish kabob, and gyros. Vegetarian offerings include falafel and a hearty vegetable moussaka (right photo below) with baked eggplant and a bechamel sauce.

Unexpectedly, Cafe Istanbul also features several Italian-style pasta dishes. These may please finicky eaters who don't wish to sample Lebanese food, but otherwise they seem an underutilization of the kitchen's energy. In addition to its regular lunch and dinner menu, Cafe Istanbul provides a lunch buffet. The cold portion features the usual supects: hummus, baba ghanoush, etc. The hot portion of the buffet varies, but tends to feature stews and casseroles. Some seem more appropriate than others; beef stroganoff, like the pasta dishes, seems potentially out of place, no matter how well it is prepared.

Beyond its dining room, Cafe Istanbul incorporates a patio with outdoor seating and a small market. The market features canned and jarred Middle Eastern ingredients along with a deli counter with meats and cheeses. The market never seems all that lively, but the products stocked still appear fresh. Cafe Istanbul does not have a liquor license but does feature a wide variety of fruit juices. There are several types of sweets available for dessert, but it's also possible to enjoy a nice end to the meal across Dorsey at Chill. Service at Cafe Istanbul varies. It's generally more responsive inside than outside. Customers seated on the patio may have to step inside occasionally to wave down staff. Eating indoors is the better strategy for those on a tight schedule.

1310 E. Apache Blvd., Tempe, AZ, 85281
(480) 731-9499

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