Switch

In sports like hockey and lacrosse, the word "hat-trick" describes three consecutive successes or three goals by the same player during one game. In Central Phoenix, Switch secures the hat-trick for the collection of restaurants that also include Fez and Ticoz. Put together, these restaurants form a trio of urban eateries that attempt to create an aura of coolness without being intimidating to mere mortals. Switch occupies the site of a former Bruegger's bagel shop and bravely opened in the middle of heavy-duty light rail construction in Midtown. Starting a restaurant is never a task for the faint-hearted, but it's an especially daring task when the street in front is torn up. Now that the construction is over and rail service is in operation, the site has become a prime one, right next door to Midtown classic Durant's, and just a few blocks north of the Heard Museum and the Encanto / Central Avenue station.

Since opening in 2007, Switch has altered its approach in several ways. When the restaurant opened, it identified itself as much as a bakery as a restaurant. The emphasis was on breakfast and lunch, and the service was based on a fast-casual model (order at the counter and have the food brought to your table). That approach received mixed reviews, and in the months following, Switch changed to full service, acquired a liquor license, started serving dinner, and limited breakfast service to weekends. With those changes, Switch seems to have found its niche. It's now a casual but chic restaurant with an emphasis on salads, soups, sandwiches, and a selection of entrees all priced under $20. The formula seems a good fit in Midtown, helping to bridge the gap between the museum and cultural district to the south and the business district to the north at Thomas Road.

Meals can start with one of half a dozen appetizers or a cup of the daily soup. The soup options have included choices like carrot (center photo below), Mediterranean vegetable, and spicy chicken with shiitake mushrooms. All come topped with with a piece of crostini and are served either by the cup or bowl. Half a dozen salads are offered, and all are large enough to work as a light entree, especially when combined with optional sliced meat for an additional charge. Most are based on big pieces of greens and other ingredients with dressing served on the side. The Super Chop Salad pushes the approach to the limits with toppings like white beans, sun-dried tomatoes, and artichokes over a bed of spinach and field greens. Likewise, the Sangria Salad tops its greenery with apples, strawberries, grapes, goat cheese, and more. None of these hearty choices are likely to provoke "just a salad" ridicule like that seen on the infamous "The Wink" episode of Seinfeld.

Among the entrees, over a dozen cold sandwiches are available, and there are also several types of panini. The grilled cheese (right photo below) is simple but effective with a combination of gouda, cheddar, and jack and the choice to add bacon. Other menu offerings include crepes and rectangular galettes of puff pastry with assorted fillings. The chicken pot pie version is particularly good. The flavors here are not subtle or uncommon, but they're well combined in generous portions and attractive presentations. Beverages include a variety of specialty cocktails, including numerous "tinis" that are creative but would probably be unrecognizable to the Rat Pack. Unlike Fez, its cousin to the north, Switch does not offer any draft beer, but the bottled selection is decent. The wines are uncommon and worth exploring. Non-alcoholic choices include sodas, bottled water, fruit juices, Italian sodas, and smoothies. Service is consistently good. The feel is relaxed, but the food arrives promptly and the staff are gracious.

Switch's interesting layout and design provides a seating configuration for just about every taste. There are two entries: one facing Central Avenue for pedestrians and another facing the parking lot behind the restaurant. The interior includes not only traditional tables, but also a long community table, and an area of lounge-style seating with plush chairs and coffee tables. Dim lighting accentuates purple hues throughout the space.The patio, tucked in the rear of the restaurant near the parking lot, offers tables for two and four in a shaded outdoor environment; the only drawback is that smoking is allowed at those tables more than 25 feet from the door. Smoking aside, the outdoor area is probably the best option for parties with kids. The inside is probably a bit too dark and lounge-like for young children. Inside or out, the look of Switch is stylish enough to stand out in a normally buttoned-down area of Midtown, but not so much as to frighten away daytime office workers. Late hours until midnight each day add to the disruption of stereotypes about Midtown as a sedate or even dull office district. Switch may be the third goal in a hat-trick, but it's also a winning play on its own.

2603 N. Central Ave., Phoenix, AZ 85004 | Map
(602) 264-2295
http://www.switchofarizona.com
Twitter: @switchwinebar

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