PHX Rail Food: Pizzeria Bianco

Phoenix is most often thought of as a city for Mexican, Southwestern, and Native American food. Many visitors to the City look for tacos, burritos, and similar foods when seeking unique Phoenix dining experiences. It's surprising, therefore, that Phoenix's most prominent restaurant on the national culinary scene serves none of those foods. Instead, it's a pizzeria located just a few blocks from the 3rd St. / Washington (westbound) and the 3rd St. / Jefferson (eastbound) stations.

Pizzeria Bianco first opened in the mid-'90s at the Town & Country Shopping Center. The restaurant takes its name from Chris Bianco, who had previously made pizzas at the A.J.'s (formerly Euromarket) grocery at Central and Camelback. Soon after opening at Town & Country, Bianco's pizzas began to garner accolades for their simple handmade quality and locally sourced ingredients.

Within a few years, Bianco advanced to the next level by moving to a freestanding building in the Heritage Square area of Downtown. At the time, Downtown revitalization still focused on the "next big project" approach that has largely failed to attract steady traffic on a regular basis. Bianco's adaptive reuse of an historic building was a harbinger of a new era in Downtown redevelopment in which small businesses with an independent and local pedigree would take the lead.

Since the move to Downtown, things have gotten a little hectic at Pizzeria Bianco. While the popularity of the restaurant has increased astronomically, the seating has stayed at 42 chairs, resulting in long waits for a table. Two hours now seems the norm, but at peak hours on weekends, the wait can be three or four hours. To help manage the wait, Bar Bianco was established next door. In the bar, customers waiting for their tables can enjoy wine or draft beer and a variety of snacks such as olives, cheeses, and crostini. The bar features both indoor and outdoor seating. For those who would rather not imbibe, there are picnic tables and benches outside the restaurant.

The wait has resulted in frequent debates in various online discussion forums, and both advocates for Pizzeria Bianco and the restaurant's skeptics have occasionally gotten carried away with their rhetoric. Incidentally, this review is based on a visit involving a wait of 75 minutes starting at 9 PM on a Tuesday night, and the time passed quickly over a round of drinks at the bar and a few games of backgammon played on a portable board.

As the crowds have grown, Chris Bianco has achieved rock star status (although thankfully without a rock star attitude). In 2001, New York food writer Ed Levine proclaimed Bianco's product the best in the nation, and in 2003, Chris Bianco won the coveted James Beard award. In addition to the foodie praise, there has also been attention from various celebrities. Bianco has been featured on both Oprah Winfrey's and Martha Stewart's shows. Regrettably, the latter incorrectly stated that the restaurant is located in Scottsdale. Jerry Seinfeld has named Chris Bianco his "pizza consultant."

The reason for this mania is a straightforward menu of just half a dozen expertly crafted pizzas. Of course, the foundation of good pizza is the crust, and Bianco's product touches upon all the nuances of good pizza crust. A light, pillowy interior is contained inside a slightly crisp exterior with a slight char from the restaurant's wood-burning oven. The mozzarella is all made on the premises, and toppings generally come from the best local purveyors. The Wiseguy features sausage from Schreiner's, and the Biancoverde (right photo below) includes fresh arugula.

While pizza takes center stage here, the starters are also impressive. There are two appetizers and two regular salads on the menu. In addition, there is a daily market salad (center photo below) that features the best of local produce. Beverage selections include a small but high-quality selection of beer and wine; however, cocktails are not served. The only significant omission from the Bianco menu is dessert. There is none, and there are not many good options within walking distance. A gelateria would make a nice addition to Heritage Square.

This is not a place for pizza by the slice or pizza to go (except for leftovers, of course). It's also not a good place for young children given the long waits and tight seating. Is the food worth the long wait? That decision is up to each individual. Every Phoenician should probably experience Pizzeria Bianco at least once; the decision to become a regular customer will depend on each customer's flexibility and patience. Pizzeria Bianco is open Tuesday through Saturday from 5 PM until 10 PM. Customers arriving up until closing time are generally placed on the waiting list and accommodated when their turn to dine comes. Reservations are available on a limited basis for parties of six or more.

623 E. Adams St., Phoenix, AZ, 85004
(602) 258-8300

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