Thai Elephant

November 3, 2011 Update: Thai Elephant's Downtown Phoenix restaurant has closed. Thai alternatives can be found just a block in either direction at Thai Basil Signature and Thai'd Up.

Early 2008 marked the return of Thai cuisine to Downtown Phoenix after many years. Downtown had a short-lived Thai restaurant in the early '90s, and in recent years there has been a steady march of Thai cuisine down Central Avenue with the opening of Wild Thaiger and Thai Hut. Still, the new breed of Thai restaurants in Central Phoenix have, until recently, stuck to Midtown locations north of I-10. With Thai Elephant's opening on Adams Street in the heart of Downtown, Thai food is now back in the city's true center. Thai Elephant occupies a storefront that was previously home to La Mesa Pit BBQ, about a block from the Washington / Central Avenue (northbound) and the First Avenue / Jefferson (southbound) stations.

The Adams Street location is small with tables crammed fairly close together. At dinner, there's sometimes room to spread out a little; during peak weekday lunch hours, the restaurant is often packed. Despite the small space, there's a bit of Thai flair in the decor with a traditional thatched roof over the entrance to the kitchen and ceiling fans overhead with a wicker look to their blades. The restaurant is neither a dive nor a palace. Suits and jeans are equally at home, and there are high chairs to accommodate children who crave (or at least tolerate) curry. The only downside to the ambiance is the tepid smooth jazz piped in over the speakers. When the restaurant gets full, the customer chatter tends to mask the Kenny G.

Thai Elephant is under the same ownership as Thai Basil, the local chain of restaurants with locations in Tempe, Midtown, and Ahwatukee. The similarities are evident the moment a visitor opens the menu. The choices are extensive with both familiar items and signature dishes. Both categories are deliver consistently. Among the starters, vegetable spring rolls are crisp and stuffed with fresh shredded vegetables and glass noodles. A more unique appetizer is the crispy sweet potato (center photo below), basically fried thick slices of sweet potato with a dipping sauce. These mildly flavored fried items are balanced by an assertive and lighter dishes such as green papaya salad studded with plump shrimp and the occasional fiery chili. Of course, a Thai meal often involves soup, and Thai Elephant has choices based on both clear broths and coconut milk.

Thai Elephant tends to take a modular approach to entrees; customers choose a dish and then choose a protein source (beef, chicken, pork, shrimp, calamari, mixed seafood, or tofu) to be included. All the major curry, stir-fry, and noodle dishes in the standard Thai repertoire are included among the numerous entree selections on the dinner menu. Some bear their traditional Thai names; others, like the Naked Shrimp or the Madness Duck have creative names showcasing the restaurant's attempt to add a little distinctiveness to the standard Thai menu. All dishes are generously portioned for sharing. A smaller but still generous selection are offered as lunch specials, all of which come with a small bowl of light soup and a vegetable spring roll. The panang (right photo below) is particularly good with rich peanut and coconut flavors blending with chili heat. The masaman curry is similar, but somewhat sweeter and full of tender chunks of potato.

Speaking of heat, Thai Elephant's servers routinely ask diners how hot they desire their food. The interpretation of the answer seems to vary. At lunch, even a request for hot produces only a mild burn. At dinner, when the clientele changes from office workers to Downtown denizens, the heat seem to go up a notch. Still, anyone really wanting to play with fire should probably ask for "Thai Hot." To wash away any resulting heat, Thai Elephant offers a variety of teas, sodas, and juices. The limeade is particularly good; it's both tart and slightly salty, allowing it to hold its own with the more piquant dishes on the menu. Thai Elephant does not have a full bar, but Singha and other bottled beers, along with a selection of wine, are available.

Thai Elephant is admirably making a go of dinner service in a part of Downtown notorious for closing early. After a tentative start with early closing times, Thai Elephant now serves dinner until at least 9 PM every night, and later on Friday and Saturday. While Thai Elephant hardly qualifies as a late-night eatery, its schedule confirms an intent to be more than just another Downtown lunch spot. Interestingly, since Thai Elephant's opening on Adams Street, the restaurant has opened a second location in Tempe, ironically located just down the street from the original University Drive location of its parent, Thai Basil. It remains to be seen how the Thai Basil / Thai Elephant empire will maintain its quality as it expands throughout the metropolitan area, but for now the opening of the Downtown location remains one of the more welcome recent dining developments in the city core.

20 W. Adams St., Phoenix, AZ 85003 | Map
(602) 252-3873
http://thaielephant.qwestoffice.net

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