Aiello's

Italian restaurants in Phoenix, as in much of the country, seem to come and go in waves. They flourished in the late '90s as any number of copycat restaurants set up shop all over town, especially along Camelback Road. Anyone remember the Italian place that occupied the now-vacant shopping center behind the former Hard Rock Cafe? How about Il Fornaio, a chain that motivated local favorite Il Forno to change its name not once, but twice. By the time the '00s came around, though, the Atkins craze decimated all but the best and most popular Italian restaurants. The pasta that was once considered a lighter food than meat and potatoes suddenly became demonized for its alleged role in promoting insulin resistance. Steakhouses became more popular than spaghetti joints for the first time in years. Now, the pendulum is slowly swinging back once again in favor of Italian food. Maybe the recession has made a $15 bowl of pasta seem a better value than a $40 piece of meat. Whatever the cause, it's good to have some balance back in the restaurant mix.

Aiello's in Uptown Phoenix is part of this new wave of Italian eateries. The restaurant opened in late 2007, bringing hearty Italian food to a building on Central Avenue that has housed several restaurants over the years, including, most recently, Panino on Central. While many of Aiello's predecessors at this site have struggled, creating the impression of a cursed location, Aiello's has been able to draw a steady clientele since opening. Aiello's is located at Central and Colter, just over a quarter mile north of the Camelback / Central Avenue station. Aiello's gets it name from veteran New York City chef and restaurateur Joe Aiello and his wife Myrah, who manages the front of the house. Aiello's menu is more inventive than classic "red sauce" Italian-American food, but it is definitely rooted in southern Italian and Sicilian cooking. Expect a wide variety of pasta entrees, along with chicken, veal, beef, pork, sausage, and fish dishes. The food choices are bold, flavorful, and abundant, but northern Italian specialties such as risotto and polenta are generally outside the scope of Aiello's menu.

Meals at Aiello's start with a bread basket that contains a mixture of baguette slices and focaccia. Both are impressive, but what really steals the show is an accompaniment of roasted spicy red peppers in oil. It adds a nice spark to the bread basket. For those who are spice-averse, an herb butter is also provided. Appetizers include classics that benchmark nearly all Italian restaurants. The minestrone soup has a thick tomato base with al dente pasta, cannellini beans, and vegetables mixed in. The caprese (center photo below) features fresh mozzarella that is made daily on the premises. More daring choices include rapini with civilate sausage and black mussels in a spicy broth. The only real let-down is a dish of fried zucchini. The finely julienned strips form a visually appealing haystack, but don't have all that much flavor or distinctive texture.

Over a dozen pasta dishes are available. Some, like spaghetti and meatballs, are well executed versions of familiar classics. Others incorporate less common ingredients. Orechiette faglioli (right photo below) features small concave pasta pasta with cannellini beans and escarole. The al dente pasta with beans and greens make for a delicious, albeit filling, combination. There is also a daily ravioli. Even when the choice is as simple as ricotta ravioli with pomodoro sauce, Aiello's prepares it with elan. The tomato sauce highlights the natural sweetness of the tomatoes in a way that recalls of the excellent sauces at Marcellino just a few miles to the north. Beyond pasta, Aiello's features meat entrees such as veal saltimbocca and a daily fish special. Throughout the menu, there's an emphasis on seafood, both shellfish and a market-priced catch of the day.

Aiello's has a good wine program that emphasizes quality over quantity. The list is only one page, but it is 100% Italian, has moderate prices, and features many interesting choices. There is also a full bar available for those who prefer cocktails. Service is professional and prompt, and Joe Aiello himself is likely to visit each table for a little banter. Aiello's is open for dinner seven days a week and serves a lunch menu on weekdays with an emphasis on pasta, salads, and sandwiches. More recently, Aiello's has begun to extend its reach with Aiello's "Back Door Pizzeria," a place where freshly baked pizzas can be picked up at the restaurant's back entrance. Only 50 pies are baked per night, so it's best to call head and early to reserve one. The new pizzeria is a prelude to a second, more casual restaurant to be opened once additional space adjacent to Aiello's current site becomes available. Although the current Aiello's welcomes children with high chairs and even crayons, the new casual restaurant may be an even better choice for family dining once it arrives.

5202 N Central Ave., Phoenix, AZ, 85012 | Map
(602) 277-8700
http://www.aiellositalianrestaurant.com