The future of any ambitious plans for the corner will hinge upon both the recovery of the economy and overcoming the inevitable neighborhood opposition to high-density, vertical development. Fortunately, there are some brave small businesses nearby like Stinkweeds for CDs, Frances for vintage clothing and interesting gifts, Red Hot Robot for collectible toys, and Smeeks for candy and knickknacks. All provide enough energy to keep the corner going until the next big thing comes along. Where to eat after visiting these stores? The most logical choice is the Prime.
For two decades, Prime Chinese Restaurant has occupied a space in an unassuming strip mall on Camelback Road just across the street from the the Camelback / Central Avenue station. To find the restaurant, look due north from the transit center's "Landmark" artwork, best known for its resemblance to a stargate from the popular television series and movie of the same name. The Prime has never attracted a lot of publicity, but has provided generally good Chinese food and friendly service during its existence. Nice decor, including brushed metal tables and original art on the walls, keeps the restaurant up-to-date despite its longevity. The only downside to the ambiance is the bland smooth jazz on the speakers.
The Prime's menu focuses on familiar Cantonese favorites, but also offers some unique touches from other regions of China, as well as a strong Thai influence, an interesting reversal of the normal Chinese-influenced cooking that prevails at so many local Thai restaurants. The menu offers a selection of appetizers including egg rolls and satay. The vegetable egg rolls come in an order of six, but are almost small enough to be finger food for toddlers. Any party larger than two will want more than one order. Fortunately, the peppery bite makes up for the lilliputian size.
The soups are another good way to start. Unfortunately, the Prime's menu is a little confusing about soup sizes. Some come in large servings suitable for sharing; others are clearly meant just for one. Since both types are intermingled in the menu, read carefully and ask questions of the staff to ensure the amount of soup delivered is right for the number of people at the table. Once the size confusion passes, the soups all deliver solid flavor. The wontons have an unadulterated "porky" taste, and the hot-and-sour soup comes in both standard and Thai styles. The latter features more herbs than the traditional Chinese version, which derives much of its distinctive taste from black vinegar.
The main dishes are the typical Chinese variety of meat, seafood, and vegetable-based dishes with different sauces. The Prime displays some of its best kitchen creativity with shrimp. Lemon grass shrimp (center photo below), a zesty dish featuring plump crustaceans in a spicy sauce, reiterates the Thai influence. The "romantic shrimp" are breaded and then paired with grilled fresh pineapple. Although the promised hot chili is barely perceptible, the unlikely pairing of seafood and tropical fruit delivers an interesting bundle of flavors and textures. Vegetable dishes are equally appealing, with long beans (right photo below), for example, available in a garlic sauce. All main dishes come up with a choice of white or brown rice. Portions are smaller than at many Chinese restaurants; there's enough that one entree per person will yield a complete meal, but leftovers to take home are not guaranteed.
The Prime does not have a full bar, but it does serve a limited selection of bottled beer and wine in addition to non-alcoholic beverages. The restaurant is open seven days a week for dinner, but lunch is available only on weekdays. There are high chairs available, and it's not at all uncommon to see multigenerational family groups eating at the large circular tables in the center of the restaurant. The Prime may be a veteran among the newer businesses near Central and Camelback, but its up-to-date look and menu keep it fresh as the corner slowly moves toward its unrealized role as a key intersection in the heart of the city.
24 W Camelback Rd., Phoenix, AZ 85013 | Map
(602) 274-7219
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