Yasda Bento

Adams Street in Downtown Phoenix is hardly the busiest or broadest thoroughfare in the area, but somehow it has a level of urban activity not always found in the city’s core. There’s the infamous street preacher at Central and Adams, who alternates between playing a keyboard on the northwest corner and yelling about fire and brimstone on the southeast corner. Beyond that eccentricity and the constant parade of pedestrians, cars, and trains, the street also serves as a small restaurant row for Downtown workers, residents, and enthusiasts. Yasda Bento, a quick-service Japanese restaurant on the block between Central and First Avenue, is an essential part of that dining cluster near the Central / Washington (westbound) and First Avenue /Jefferson (eastbound) light rail stations.

Yasda was once the Downtown outpost of local chain Yoshi’s, but switched to independent status several years ago as Yoshi’s contracted. The basic concept of filling rice and noodle bowls in a no-frills environment hasn’t changed, but since striking out on its own, Yasda has been consistent with the high quality of its food and its ability to handle a big lunch rush with efficiency. The room is straightforward with a little Japanese décor on one wall and pictures of the food on another. The photos on the wall are probably the best way to order since the printed menu often lies at the far end of a sizable line during the lunch rush. The day’s special is usually announced on a stand near the entrance.

Yasda's menu starts with the usual rice bowls featuring teriyaki chicken. Teriyaki is ubiquitous, but the version here is unusually good with a combination of white and dark meat that has been not only coated during grilling, but also marinated during preparation. That avoidance of shortcuts ensures poultry that is thoroughly infused with a double dose of the teriyaki combination of sweet and soy flavors. There are bowls of just chicken or combinations of chicken and vegetables available, and there’s also a spicy teriyaki option. The last item begins decpetively, seeming as thought it might be only minimally different from the standard version, but then delivers a more powerful afterburn as its effect is felt.

Despite the emphasis on teriyaki comfort food, Yasda doesn't stop at the basics. Other bowls include bulgogi, sesame shrimp, Japanese-style brown curry with chicken, and hibachi soba noodles with flavorful grilled chicken and a mixture of greenery including zucchini and napa cabbage. There’s another cold noodle dish available during the summer months. All entrees are available in small and large sizes and can be packaged in a combination meal with an appetizer and drink. The appetizers include standards such as edamame, gyoza, egg rolls, and tempura. Sushi offerings are limited to rolls; due to the small kitchen space and food safety concerns in a quick-service environment, no raw sushi is available. There is one nice bargain associated with the sushi: All rolls are available at reduced prices after 2 PM each day since they cannot be held over until the next business day.

Soups include miso and udon noodles. The latter is available with or without chicken. The udon is flavorful, filling, and comes with a piece of tempura adorning the bowl and a side order or rice for soaking up excess broth. No matter what entrée is ordered, a stop at the small condiment station near the soda fountain is always worthwhile. Look here for sliced scallion; soy sauce, both regular and light; garlic chili sauce; gomasio, a garnish of sesame seeds and salt; and shichimi togarishi, a flavored red chili powder. Salads include a fairly ordinary green salad and a more flavorful sunomono salad, made from marinated cucumbers. No alcohol is served; beverages are limited to fountain sodas, bottled water, and iced tea. Service is friendly and brisk at the counter. Customers place their orders and are summoned to pick them up just a few minutes later. Indoor seating can be tight during the lunch rush; there are a few outdoor tables with earshot of the notorious street preacher, but since they lack shade, their appeal is limited during the hot summer months.

The only thing that’s hard to like about Yasda are the hours. The restaurant is open weekdays only from 10:30 AM until 2:30 PM. In other words, this is one of Downtown’s excessive number of weekday-lunches-only places with no weekend or evening hours at all. That’s a shame because nearby places like Hanny’s and Thai Elephant are taking chances on evening and weekend hours and seem to be succeeding with them. Still, Yasda is a small business and perhaps the limited hours are more about preserving quality of life for the owners than about any lack of faith in Downtown after dark. Even if the opportunities to enjoy the food are constrained to the lunch break, the restaurant adds life to the city center and enriches the interesting mix of food choices found along Adams Street.

18 W Adams St., Phoenix AZ 85003
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(602) 254-7174