La Tolteca

It's been six years since Morgan Spurlock's film "Super Size Me" dramatized the pitfalls of our agricultural bounty. We produce so much food and distribute it at such low apparent cost that it's easy to get carried away with outlandishly huge portions. Locally, La Tolteca, located at 12th and Van Buren Streets just east of Downtown Phoenix, has sometimes advertised itself as the home of the "three-pound super burrito," but it's really so much more. Sure, one can indulge in an over-the-top monster of a meal here, but it's equally feasible to eat more moderately and even enjoy a little shopping on the side. The restaurant is about a quarter mile north of the 12th St. / Washington (westbound) and 12th St. / Jefferson (eastbound) light rail stations, with the best walking route being directly along 12th Street.

exterior

The business is a Mexican bakery, restaurant, and a small grocery all in one. The panaderia counter is strategically placed the along the route between the dining room from the parking lot and just to the left for pedestrians who enter via the door facing Van Buren. Every day the bakery features a variety of cookies, cakes, and, of course, corn and flour tortillas for sale. this is the land of impulse purchases, and  many are worth the indulgence. Plain sugar cookies with chocolate sprinkles will delight most children, but adult tastes may veer toward the corn-based corico cookies in a toroidal shape like a donut. Also try  a cochito, a molasses-flavored cookie shaped like a little pig, or one of the empanadas with fillings like pineapple or cream. Many items are priced by the dozen for enjoyment at home later.

corico and cochito

Masa is available by the pound in several varieties for those who prefer to make their own tortillas. The grocery is limited but offers a meat counter, some dry goods, a selection of dairy, a small produce section, and, somewhat surprisingly, a freezer case of Ben and Jerry's ice cream. There is also a small area devoted to specialty cookware, including washboards, presumably more for making menudo than washing clothes without electricity. The grocery portion of La Tolteca has been partially eclipsed in recent years by the nearby Pro's Ranch Ranch Market, but it's still worth exploring. The two adjacent dining rooms are lively with floors of saltillo tile and colorful murals on each of the walls.

chicken mole

The restaurant portion of La Tolteca involves ordering at a counter, waiting for one's number to be called, and then stopping at the salsa bar before finding a seat. The menu is broad, incorporating typical border favorites such as chile rellenos and burritos, all super in quality even if not super sized. For the more adventurous, La Tolteca features less common dishes such as cactus tostadas and potato tacos. The former is crisp, flat tortilla with copious strips of cactus pad on top. The texture and taste is reminiscent of bell peppers, but with slightly more tang. like many items, it's topped with crema, as opposed to sour cream, and crumbly cotija cheese. The potato taco is appealing with a gently yielding texture and nutty flavor; however, there's not enough potato inside. What's there tends to be drowned out by the crema and cheese on top.

chicken chilaquiles

These items are mild, but La Tolteca knows how to turn on the heat when necessary. The mole is a dark poblano version applied to a half chicken. It has just enough assertive heat to  smolder without overpowering the mix of myriad flavors such as chocolate and cinnamon and the sesame seeds that accentuate the dish. Chilaquiles are also spicy with salsa covering crisp tortilla strips combined with pulled chicken or shredded beef. Crumbled white cheese and generous slices of avocado enrich this meal, which is available all day despite being associated with breakfast. Even more spice is found at the salsa bar, which always includes four options. Most are on the mild side, but the habanero version is predictably fiery. The bar also has minced cilantro, chopped onions, and "zanahorias en escabeche," a mix of  pickled carrots and generous cauliflower florets. A few trips to the salsa bar here will more than offset any lack of greenery in the entrees.

torta

Beverage selections include not only the usual fountain sodas, but also horchata and half a dozen types of aquas frescas. Typical flavors like pina (pineapple) and horchata are always present, but more interesting choices include platano (banana) and sandia (watermelon). There is also beer available in the grocery area. Service is friendly, and staff are bilingual in English and Spanish, allowing La Tolteca to serve a broad clientele of neighborhood residents and downtown workers. La Tolteca also has a catering business with many of its favorites available by the pan. Of course, you don't have to order a whole pan of enchiladas or even a three-pound super burrito to enjoy the flavors of La Tolteca. Super size it or not, this Van Buren veteran delivers consistent quality in any quantity.

chicken burrito with red chile

1205 E. Van Buren St., Phoenix AZ 85006
(602) 253-1511
http://www.latoltecamex.com/





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