Knock Kneed Lobster

Listen to the “Sgt. Pepper” album or watch the movie “Yellow Submarine,” and it’s hard not to remember the Beatles song “When I’m Sixty-Four.” Formally credited to the duo of Lennon and McCartney, the song is 100% Paul with its unabashed mawkishness. Of course, when McCartney himself turned 64 a few years ago, the irony was apparent. The Beatle known for his boyish charm had become a senior citizen, albeit one who could still rock out at Coachella. In Phoenix, fish-and-chips joint the Knock Kneed Lobster (KKL) is just about to celebrate 64 years in business. Like McCartney, the restaurant shows it age, but still has the right touch when it comes to its specialties.

KKL has existed since 1947 under the same family ownership but with a change in name (It was originally known as “Lazy Lou’s.”) and a few different locations, all of them on the east side of Central Phoenix along Van Buren and Washington Streets. The current location is at 32nd Street and Washington. Light rail passes right by the restaurant, but due to the long distances between stations in that part of town, the restaurant is a substantial three-quarters of a mile from the nearest station at 38th Street / Washington. Since few customers will find the stroll through an industrial area appealing, consider this a restaurant that transit users can best reach via transfer to a bus or by bringing a bike on the train.

While there are no seagulls or salty air, this inland seafood restaurant does its best to suggest a waterfront atmosphere within its walls. KKL is casual: Order at the counter, wait for your number to be called, and then find a table in one of the many dining rooms. All of them have rough wood tables with assorted nautical bric-a-brac on the walls. Expect random sea shells, light houses, fishing nets, and aquarium tanks. The biggest dining room is sunny with a good view of the passing trains on Washington Street while other rooms off to the side are darker and more secluded. The restaurant got a little dingy during rail construction a few years ago, but appears a little more cleaned up these days. Still, this is definitely a place where food counts more than ambiance.

KKL describes itself as a “shrimp and fish shack,” and it’s hard to argue with that verbiage. Most customers order fish-and-chips or shrimp-and-chips in various combinations. Every option from a single piece of fried seafood up to a generous platter of fish, shrimp, oysters, and clams is available -- almost always fried and paired with chips. The “fish,” really Icelandic cod in most cases, is cut into generous pieces and coated with a batter of medium thickness that adheres well to the flesh inside it. The fried cod is a success either on its own or paired with the house tartar sauce and a squeeze of juice from a wedge of lemon. The same breading is used with equivalent results on the fried shrimp.

The chips? Well, those come from the freezer as the numerous Lamb Weston boxes visible in the kitchen will confirm. They’re good enough for anyone really looking for fried potatoes, but nothing special. Instead, try some of the restaurant’s own signature sides made on the premises. The coleslaw balances sweet and tangy notes with shredded carrots intermingled among the cabbage strands. The hush puppies, attributed to a “secret recipe,” are amazingly good with whole kernels of corn embedded in the cornmeal fritters. Top them with some Louisiana hot sauce for best results. You’ll find it in a pump dispenser, along with ketchup, malt vinegar, and tartar and cocktail sauces at the condiment station.

Beyond fried fish, KKL actually has a fairly broad menu. For an appetizer or light meal, try the New England clam chowder. Its creamy texture is interrupted only by firm chunks of potatoes and generous pieces of clam. Skip the salad, though. It’s mostly iceberg lettuce with the occasional cucumber slice or grape tomato. The accompanying packet of Kraft dressing makes it clear the restaurant’s heart is not in this dish. Instead, anyone seeking a more healthful meal at KKL should try one of the baked seafood entries with low-fat sides such as steamed broccoli or the wild rice blend. There’s even lobster tail on the menu for $28, but it’s hard to imagine a lot of orders for that entree in KKL’s no-frills atmosphere.

Of course, seafood avoiders have choices here, too, with hamburgers and chicken strips on the menu. A more recent addition is a barbecued pork sandwich. There’s no dessert at all here, but KKL does have a liquor license. There’s a little bit of wine available, but this is a place better suited to bottled beer. Some of the better options include Alaskan Amber and Four Peaks Kilt Lifter. Non-alcoholic drinks include all types of fountain sodas, iced tea, and even horchata. Given his vegetarian diet, Paul McCartney himself is unlikely to be eating a lot of cod at KKL, but those who enjoy fried fish can hum one of his best-known tunes as the restaurant turns 64.

3202 E Washington St., Phoenix AZ 85034
Map
(602) 273-1068