Soul food is not abundant in Phoenix, with a handful of restaurants, many of them short-lived, offering the cuisine at any given time. One restaurant that has been in business for decades is Mrs. White's Golden Rule Cafe, on the eastern edge of Downtown Phoenix. Mrs. White's occupies a plain yellow building on Jefferson Street, halfway between the 3rd St. / Jefferson and 12th St. / Jefferson stations (eastbound) or the 3rd St. / Washington and 12th St. / Washington stations (westbound). Inside the unpretentious building, customers seat themselves at either a counter or a small number of tables. The menu is hand written on the wall in several prominent locations, although printed menus are available on request.
The menu at Mrs. White's is simple and straightforward. Meals always begin with complimentary cornbread, (center photo below) which is just right in terms of texture and sweetness. There are always six entrees available: chicken fried steak, fried chicken, smothered chicken, pork chops, catfish, and a vegetable plate. All are the same price (approximately $10), and the five meat entrees include two sides chosen from the likes of yams, collard greens, green beans, rice, black-eyed peas, and other Southern specialties. The vegetable plate (right photo below) includes portions of all side dishes on one plate. The seasonings used are simple but satisfying and include onions, bay leaves, and, of course, salt. The vegetables are generally not overcooked, but instead retain their natural flavors and firmness. After a joint PHX Rail Food / Chow Down Phoenix! visit to Mrs. White's, Jason and Arman described the chicken fried steak as not quite as fork-tender as at some establishments, but tasty and well seasoned. There are also daily specials that delve into slightly less familiar fare, including oxtails; Okra gumbo is offered on Fridays.
No alcohol is served, but beverage selections include lemonade and iced tea. Dessert offerings include cake, cobblers, and pies, although given Mrs. White's large portions, it's best to count on sharing a dessert. At the end of the meal, no check is brought to the table. Instead, guests make their way to the cashier, who announces the total owed based on what customers say they ordered. This practice is reportedly the origin of the "Golden Rule" in the restaurant's name. Mrs. White's hours are limited, with lunch offered from 11 AM until 5 PM on weekdays and a Saturday barbecue. Mrs. White's does not accept credit cards or checks, so visitors should bring cash.
808 E Jefferson St., Phoenix, AZ 85034
(602) 262-9256
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Wednesday, June 6, 2007
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