Note: Payton Curry, the chef emphasized in the review below, has left Caffe Boa. This review should no longer be considered representative of the restaurant's current food and approach.
Anyone who has studied theater knows about the concept of a three-act structure: Begin with an act that introduces characters and a situation, continue with another act that complicates the situation and builds tension, and finish with a third act in which the action reaches a climax and resolution is achieved. Caffe Boa, a Mill Avenue veteran of 15 years, has just entered its third act with the addition of noted chef Payton Curry. Curry comes to Boa from Digestif in Old Scottsdale. Digestif had a short life, first as part of the foundering SouthBridge development, and then more briefly in a smaller space across the street. The restaurant itself lasted less than two years, but during that time Chef Curry built up a reputation for culinary innovation and a fan base that would follow him anywhere in the metro area.
Before looking at the details of Caffe Boa, Act III, though, it's worthwhile to rewind quickly through the first two acts. Act I: Caffe Boa started in the mid-90's at the south end of the Mill Avenue commercial district. Back then, it was shoebox of a restaurant near the old Long Wong's nightclub. The atmosphere was minimal, but the food drew a loyal clientele. Act II: After over a decade of operation, Caffe Boa moved in 2005 to a new location at the north end of Mill, just a block from the Mill Avenue / Third Street light rail station. The new location breathed new life into the restaurant, allowing the consistently good food to be augmented with better decor, an improved wine list, and a selection of draft beer. Of course, no change pleases everyone and there have been complaints, often exaggerated, about higher prices in the new Boa.
Anyone who has studied theater knows about the concept of a three-act structure: Begin with an act that introduces characters and a situation, continue with another act that complicates the situation and builds tension, and finish with a third act in which the action reaches a climax and resolution is achieved. Caffe Boa, a Mill Avenue veteran of 15 years, has just entered its third act with the addition of noted chef Payton Curry. Curry comes to Boa from Digestif in Old Scottsdale. Digestif had a short life, first as part of the foundering SouthBridge development, and then more briefly in a smaller space across the street. The restaurant itself lasted less than two years, but during that time Chef Curry built up a reputation for culinary innovation and a fan base that would follow him anywhere in the metro area.
Before looking at the details of Caffe Boa, Act III, though, it's worthwhile to rewind quickly through the first two acts. Act I: Caffe Boa started in the mid-90's at the south end of the Mill Avenue commercial district. Back then, it was shoebox of a restaurant near the old Long Wong's nightclub. The atmosphere was minimal, but the food drew a loyal clientele. Act II: After over a decade of operation, Caffe Boa moved in 2005 to a new location at the north end of Mill, just a block from the Mill Avenue / Third Street light rail station. The new location breathed new life into the restaurant, allowing the consistently good food to be augmented with better decor, an improved wine list, and a selection of draft beer. Of course, no change pleases everyone and there have been complaints, often exaggerated, about higher prices in the new Boa.
During the time at the new location, Boa has also moved to include more organic and local ingredients, and Curry's hiring represents a commitment to taking that approach to the next level. ChefP8N, as he identifies himself on Twitter, became known at Digestif for his market-to-table approach, which has carried over to the chef's new gig in Tempe. A salad is no longer made from just arugula, but instead from wild arugula proudly sourced from local farmer's market favorite, Seacat Gardens. With a simple dressing and a topping of shaved pecorino romano, this is a rocket salad capable of a journey to another galaxy of flavor. Similarly, the mozzarella is now the chef's daily hand-pulled version. It's even better at Boa than it was at Digestif, largely due to a more attractive presentation with toast points and roasted peppers. Daily soups to date have included options like free range turkey with fava beans.
The appetizer list includes a few holdovers from the pre-Payton menu, including bruschetta and the shrimp adriatico, plump crustaceans in an addictive garlicky sauce. The changes seem more extensive in the entree department. The prior approach at Boa was Italian with flavors of the Adriatic Sea and the Balkans playing a supporting role. Those influences are still around, but they're part of a much broader approach that values high-impact ingredients and flavors over any particular national cuisine. The menu is defiitely meatier than at the old Boa; after all, Curry's old restaurant proudly displayed a sign proclaiming, "Pig is the new black." Still, there are unique and delicious meatless choices. A seasonal pasta dish of Autumn maccaroncello combines curved, tubular noodles with a smooth sauce of butternut squash, honey, and pepitas.
At this point, given the all-around brilliance of the food, it would be tempting to say that Caffe Boa has indeed reached the next level; however, there are some lingering issues with service. At Boa, the staff have always been friendly, but servers have to be prompted to offer bread more often than not. Also, the kitchen's pace is sometimes too slow at lunch time for anyone who has to return to an office within an hour. Those issues are small, but they need attention if the overall dining experience at Boa is to match the unsurpassed quality of the kitchen's output. Curry's wife, Shantal Abdo, is now in charge of the front of the house at Boa; odds are that in time she'll upgrade the guest experience as dramatically as her husband has transformed the menu.
Caffe Boa has two dining areas: One is a main dining room with brick walls and hardwood floors; it's a great-looking room, but it can be noisy during peak times. A quieter option is the large front patio, which is both shaded and mist-cooled, making it a viable option even in the summer heat. After 15 years of operation in two different locations, Caffe Boa has made a bold move foward. Ironically, Boa's transformation to a more upscale identity has come as the real estate collapse has halted construction of nearby luxury condominium projects that might have supplied customers. For that reason, having a rising culinary star in the kitchen is a gutsy and necessary move to draw customers from beyond the immediate neighborhood. At least that's the plot for Act III.
398 S Mill Ave., #110, Tempe, AZ 85281 | Map
(480) 968-9112
http://www.cafeboa.com
1 comments:
This place SUCKS! With and without Curry, owners wisnieskis are complete jerks! Bounce checks to everyone, can't pay their bills, what a joke of a place.
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