Phoenicia Cafe

This week starts the observance of the holy month of Ramadan by Islamic populations around the world. For Muslims, Ramadan requires fasting during daylight hours in order to concentrate on prayer and self-improvement. For the majority of Phoenix Metro Area residents who don’t practice the faith, however, meals go on as scheduled. For those not inclined to fast, it might be more interesting to experience some of the food of the Middle East in a restaurant located right next door to a mosque. In Tempe, that’s exactly what happens when eating at Phoenicia Cafe, a “Mediterranean Grill,” located adjacent to the Islamic Community Center on Forest Avenue, just a few blocks north of the ASU Main Campus and a few blocks south of the Veterans Way / College Avenue light rail station.

The restaurant occupies a storefront in a blue and white complex of buildings also housing a Middle Eastern grocery known as Salam’s Market.The interior of the restaurant, which has been recently redecorated, features murals, faux stone walls, and flat-panel televisions. Sometimes, they show concerts and music videos in Arabic. Other times, they’re showing NBA games, a U.S. export that seems to have a worldwide following, even in places where America itself is not universally loved. There are ten booths ringing the room and about the same number of tables. The setting is informal and suited to a steady parade of students, faculty, and office workers from nearby offices in Tempe. The restaurant is full service for the most part, but expect to walk up to the cash register to pay at the end of the meal.

To start, Phoenicia serves the full range of Middle Eastern mezes, either a la carte or in a generous combination platter. The most popular option is probably the thick, creamy hummus, which is redolent of garlic and best augmented with a splash of olive oil. The baba ghanoush is a version of the popular dip with a strong smokey note from thorough roasting of the eggplant within. The tabouleh has a distinctive taste and tartness from fresh lemon juice, but doesn’t cross over into puckering territory. Phoenicia’s lentil soup is a relatively light version of this Mediterranean classic. Zipped up with a squeeze of juice from the accompanying lemon wedge and maybe a drop of the sriracha sauce that graces every table, it's a nice appetizer, but not the meal-in-a-bowl experience provided by some of more hearty versions of this dish.

Since the soup is going to whet more appetites than it satiates, a variety of pita sandwiches are available, many of them less than $5. The falafel at Phoenicia is among the best in the metro area. The crisp exterior is studded with sesame seeds, while the interior is moist and well spiced. For the heartiest of appetites, there's the falafel deluxe sandwich, which stuffs two pita pockets full of falafel, hummus, and tabouleh into a supersized lunch choice. Entrees are equally generous. A favorite appetizer becomes a meal via the hummus deluxe, which combines the dip with chicken or lamb. In terms of grain-based main dishes, there is fluffy couscous available in chicken, lamb, and vegetarian versions with a zesty red sauce, as well as ghallaba, a Lebanese dish that combines meat with yellow rice, bell peppers, and a tomato-based sauce.

Since this place is, after all, next to a mosque, no alcohol is served, but a variety of fruit juices and sodas are available. Ask for a mixed juice if torn between mango and guava, but be warned that the pulpy nectars are filling. For a lighter beverage, make sure to ask for the house lemonade and skip the pink lemonade, which comes from the soda fountain. For dessert, baklava is about the only choice, but it comes in four varieties: walnut, cashew, pistachio, and chocolate. The first is probably the most familiar, and the last may be the most satisfying for the true sweet tooth. Phoenicia has a kid's menu, but the emphasis is on items like chicken nuggets and French fries. Children with even the slightest sense of adventure will probably do better with a falafel sandwich since most kids are known to like fried anything.

Before or after eating, the adjacent market is worth a visit. The passage from the restaurant to the shop holds a small shelf full of Islamic books and DVDs. Beyond that point, it’s all about the food with Middle Eastern ingredients, sweets, frozen foods, and even a halal butcher counter. Phoenicia is always a good choice for lunch but tends to close early in the evenings. Call ahead if visiting for dinner. The restaurant also tends to draw crowds during the peak lunch hour. Be prepared to wait for a table if arriving between noon and 1 PM on a weekday. There is overflow seating on a patio facing Seventh Street, but with without shade canopies or mist cooling, the desirability of those seats will vary with the season. Phoenicia may be next to a mosque, but it’s a worthwhile destination for people of any faith, or no faith at all, who believe in good eating.

616 S Forest Ave., Tempe AZ 85281
Map
(480) 967-8009