Pane Bianco

In the world of television, it seems every good show gets at least one spin-off. Some succeed or even surpass the success of their originators; others are merely a shadow of what they seek to imitate. Think of clunkers Joanie Loves Chachi or After Mash as examples of just how difficult it can be to create a good spin-off. Likewise, the restaurant world has its share of spinoffs. While some concepts become chains, other restaurateurs like to maintain their originality and indie credibility by opening a second site with a different name and menu, even if the approach and culinary philosophy are similar to the original restaurant.

In than vein, Pane Bianco is a spin-off of the legendary Pizzeria Bianco in downtown Phoenix. While Pizzeria Bianco serves pizza in the evenings, Pane Bianco, situated just steps from the Campbell / Central Avenue station, serves sandwiches and salads during the day. Fortunately, Pane Bianco is no Scrappy Doo compared to its big uncle at Heritage Square. Pane Biano stands on its own by matching Chris Bianco's devotion to fresh, locally-sourced ingredients with the lunch hour convenience of food packaged to take back to the office or eat on the go.

The menu is intentionally limited. Three sandwiches are permanent fixtures on the menu. A vegetarian sandwich of mozzarella, basil, and tomato is a model of simple elegance, relying more on sheer ingredient quality than elaborate layers of condiments. Another mixes tuna with aragula, olive, and red onions. A third mixes sopressata, the king of salamis, with provolone and roasted peppers. If these three aren't interesting enough, a "market sandwich" special is featured daily. These specials might include lamb or other hearty meats and vegetables depending on which ingredients are available fresh from the best local purveyors.

The salad choices are limited to two: a caprese (center photo below) and another featuring tuna on a bed of greens. The former appears simple -- maybe too simple -- at first glance since the ingredients are barely torn or mixed together. That approach, however, allows each ingredient's intrinsic quality to shine on initial taste before the customer cuts, mixes, and matches the ingredients to his or her specifications. There's also sometimes a daily foccacia that can stand on its own as a small entree or add some bulk to a salad meal.

Sandwiches and salads, which are generally $8 each, may seem pricey at first glance, but the ingredients are of top quality, and portions are generous. The bread and the mozzarella are both house-made, and most of the vegetables and herbs come from top-tier growers like McClendon Select. The rice pudding is a sure bet for dessert. Pane Bianco has a limited beverage selection with bottled water (still and sparkling) and a few other options. Standard fountain sodas are not available, and no alcohol is served.

There are a few details to keep in mind when visiting Pane Bianco: First, everything is packaged to go. Some shaded picnic benches, which Pane Bianco shares with its neighbor, Lux Coffeebar, are available in front of the restaurant. It's also usually possible to take Pane Bianco food inside Lux as long as one buys a beverage or dessert from that equally deserving establishment. Otherwise, taking the food elsewhere to eat is common. Second, while Pizzeria Bianco is notorious for two-hour waits for a table, Pane Bianco, although by no means fast food, is a comparatively quick option for lunch. Finally, because of the picnic table seating and the lack of high chairs, this restaurant may not be the best choice for infants and toddlers, although it will just fine for older children who appreciate a good sandwich.

4404 N Central Ave., Phoenix, AZ 85012
(602) 234-2100

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