Pane Bianco

In the world of television, it seems every good show gets at least one spin-off. Some succeed or even surpass the success of their originators; others are merely a shadow of what they seek to imitate. Think of clunkers Joanie Loves Chachi or After Mash as examples of just how difficult it can be to create a good spin-off. Likewise, the restaurant world has its share of spinoffs. While some concepts become chains, other restaurateurs like to maintain their originality and indie credibility by opening a second site with a different name and menu, even if the approach and culinary philosophy are similar to the original restaurant. In than vein, Pane Bianco is a spin-off of the legendary Pizzeria Bianco in downtown Phoenix. While Pizzeria Bianco serves pizza in the evenings, Pane Bianco, situated just across the street from the Campbell / Central light rail station, serves sandwiches and salads during the day.

Fortunately, Pane Bianco is no Scrappy Doo compared to its big uncle at Heritage Square. Pane Biano stands on its own by matching Chris Bianco's devotion to fresh, locally-sourced ingredients with the lunch hour convenience of food packaged to take back to the office or eat on the go. While Pizzeria Bianco is notorious for two-hour waits for a table, Pane Bianco, although by no means fast food, is a comparatively quick option for lunch. That faster approach is possible in part because Pane Bianco has never operated under the model that Bianco himself personally assembles each sandwich. While the proprietor is often visible on the premises and supervises all operations, sandwich making is entrusted to line cooks working busily behind the counter.

The menu is intentionally limited. Three sandwiches are permanent fixtures on the menu. A vegetarian sandwich of mozzarella, basil, and tomato is a model of simple elegance, relying more on sheer ingredient quality than elaborate layers of condiments. Another mixes tuna with arugula, olive, and red onions. A third mixes sopressata, the king of salamis, with provolone and roasted peppers. If these three aren't interesting enough, a "market sandwich" special is featured daily. These specials might include lamb or turkey depending on which ingredients are available fresh from the best local purveyors. The sandwiches all come on large, airy, house-made, round loaves. They're not overly stuffed with ingredients, but the large size of the bread makes it feasible for two people to share a sandwich paired with a salad.

Those salads choices are equally limited. There's a caprese and another featuring tuna on a bed of greens. The former appears simple -- maybe too simple -- at first glance since the ingredients are barely torn or mixed together. That approach, however, allows each ingredient's intrinsic quality to shine on initial taste before the customer cuts, mixes, and matches the ingredients to his or her specifications. There's also sometimes a daily foccacia that can stand on its own as a small entree or add some bulk to a salad meal. Sandwiches and salads, which approach $10 each, may seem pricey at first glance, but the ingredients are of top quality, and portions are generous. Even the mozzarella is made on site, and most of the vegetables and herbs come from top-tier growers like McClendon Select. When available, the rice pudding is a sure bet for dessert.

The service? There isn't a whole lot of it. Instead, there's a three-step food procument process reminiscent of a certain notorious Seinfeld episode in terms of its complexity, although without the shouting or meaness. The steps are the following: 1) Enter the shop and step to the left. You'll have a moment to read the menu on the wall before being called on to place your order. 2) Step to the right where an indistinct lline forms near the cash register. Wait for your name to be called and then pay for the food. 3) Step to the back of the shop and wait for your name to be called once again when the food is ready. Got it? If not, don't worry too much. The process could be simplified, but both of Chris Bianco's establishments are known for doing things their own way. It's better to figure it out than to fight it.

After mastering the ordering process, eating the food involves a separate set of protocols. Everything is packaged to go. Some shaded picnic benches, which Pane Bianco shares with its neighbor, Lux Coffeebar, are available in front of the restaurant. It's also usually possible to take Pane Bianco food inside Lux as long as one buys a beverage or dessert from that equally deserving establishment. That's helpful because Pane Bianco's own beverage selection is limited to bottled water (still and sparkling) and a few specialty bottled drinks. Standard fountain sodas are not available, and no alcohol is served. Yes, Pane Bianco is a spin-off of sorts, but isn't it at least a better use of time to eat well on picnic tables along Central Avenue than it is to stay inside and watch derivative television?

4404 N Central Ave., Phoenix AZ 85012 | Map
(602) 234-2100