Thursday, May 3, 2007

Med Fresh Grill

Update: A more recent review of this restaurant was published November 28, 2011.

The word "Mediterranean," or any derivative of it, is probably one of the most trendy ways to label restaurants. With continued favorable news about the Mediterranean diet's beneficial health effects, it's no wonder that that restaurants left and right want to align with that region of the world. Often Mediterranean is taken to mean the well-known cuisines of southern Europe, most notably Spain, the French Riviera, Greece, and Italy. In other cases, it's associated with the Middle East -- Lebanon, Israel, Egypt, etc. Which Mediterranean nation tends to be underrepresented despite its rich culinary heritage? Most often, it's Turkey. While there are countless "Mediterranean" restaurants around town, there are only two Turkish restaurants in the Phoenix Metropolitan Area.

One of those lonely Turkish culinary outposts is a small quick-service restaurant called Med Fresh Grill. Med Fresh is on the west side of Mill Avenue, just over a block south of the Mill Avenue / Third Street station. Med Fresh may stand out as one of a limited number of Turkish restaurants, but it fits easily into the varied dining scene on the 300 and 400 blocks of Mill. Despite the vague restaurant name, a sign outside Med Fresh's entrance identifies it as a Turkish restaurant, and the Turkish overheard among staff and some of the customers reinforces that identity. Med Fresh opened in 2007 under the ownership of the original chef at Efes, a full service Turkish restaurant in southern Tempe, and two of his brothers. Despite the change in venue and the transition to a more casual atmosphere, the food did not suffer.

The restaurant's interior is clean and cheerful -- much more so that than the fast food setup would suggest. There are colorful murals of Meditteranean scenery and, somewhat out of character, a widescreen TV showing the latest U.S. sports news. Customers proceed to the front counter, place their orders, choose a seat, and then wait for their numbers to be called. A few tables of additional seating are also available on a small patio facing Mill. Most customers order from reader boards overhead, but printed menus are available. Anyone unfamiliar with Turkish food should spend a little time talking to the friendly staff, though, for helpful guidance about what to order. For the most part, nothing here is shockingly exotic or intimidating --maybe just identified differently than in restaurants of other nationalities.

Much of the menu is similar to other Middle Eastern restaurants. Hummus, tabouleh, baba ghanoush, dolmas, and falafel are all available, either in pita sandwiches or as the featured ingredients in platters. There is also a vegetarian combination (center photo below) for those who want to have it all. The falafel is good, but not great, since it lacks the fresh-from-the-fryer combination of a crisp exterior and a yielding interior common in the best versions of this dish. Then again, falafel is the least Turkish dish on the menu, so it may not be realistic to expect excellence in that department. The lentil soup, on the other hand, is excellent with a thinner composition and more peppery bite than many versions of this soup. The Turkish version is known as "mercimek corbasi," and a squeeze of fresh lemon juice adds the final touch at the table.

Although familiar meatless dishes are an important part of the menu at Med Fresh, the meat dishes are where Med Fresh's Turkish ownership becomes apparent. The signature Turkish dish is the doner, available in chicken and beef varieties. Doner is similar to shawarma, with seasoned meat on a rotisserie ready to be sliced for sandwiches or served as part of a platter atop rice. The pita sandwiches make a hearty lunch; the platters are generous not only with rice and meat, but also with an accompanying salad and garlicky sauce. For customers who wish to add even more flavor to their food, a secret red sauce is available by request at the counter. It's reportedly a holdover from the chef's previous stint at Efes. For anyone preferring their meat in cubes rather than slices, kabobs of beef, chicken, and lamb are also available.

Fountains sodas are available, along with fruity milkshakes. Unfortunately, a delicious tangy house-made lemonade has recently been discontinued. Beer and wine are also offered with some Turkish selections such as Efes Pilsener beer available. A signature dessert is baklava (right photo below), and Med Fresh's version manages to be moist, buttery, and sweet in all the right proportions. The other option, rice pudding, is equally impressive. Service at the counter is outgoing and efficient, but the food may take a little longer than in some quick-service environments simply because it is prepared to order. Med Fresh has at least one high chair and is fine for children. With its late hours on weekends, the restaurant is also a good choice for big kids enjoying the Mill Avenue nightlife.

414 S Mill Ave., Suite 117, Tempe, AZ 85281 | Map
480-642-9709
http://www.medfreshgrill.com

Med Fresh Grill on Urbanspoon









http://www.phxrailfood.com/2011/11/medfresh-grill.html

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