Gallo Blanco Cafe

Hotel-restaurant relations can be tough to navigate. Traditionally, there have been a lot of dull, dreary dining rooms in middle-of-the-road hotel chains, punctuated with occasional exceptions for signature restaurants at major resorts. Lately, though, the thinking has changed to favor more distinctive restaurants; these are restaurants that locals frequent and that have identities apart from the hotels that house them. Kimpton hotels are probably best known for this approach. For the independent Clarendon Hotel in Midtown, located half a mile from the Indian School / Central station, it has been a struggle over the past few years to define a workable restaurant identity. Both approaches tried -- the indie restaurant within a hotel and the hotel-operated restaurant -- have had their share of problems.

After years under various brand identities, the historic Clarendon Hotel rebooted in its current cosmopolitan version in late 2004. Its initial restaurant partner, Camus, followed in 2005. The partnership sounded great and seemed to work for a while, but in 2007, in a divorce as public as that of reality TV uber-breeders Jon and Kate, Camus and the Clarendon went their separate ways. After the Camus debacle, the hotel tried two home-grown concepts. The first, C4, was an attempt at a Japanese-influenced menu that failed after a few months. The second was the Clarendon Kitchen, which combined slightly Southwestern cuisine with Gothic lettering in an unexpected mix not seen since John Carpenter's 1998 Vampires movie. Finally, in 2009, the Clarendon seems to have found the right approach by returning creative control to an independent restaurateur. The result is Gallo Blanco Cafe.

Gallo Blanco is another attempt at Mexican and Southwestern food, but more focused and inspired than the previous Clarendon Kitchen concept. The food isn't corporate Southwestern lite with a chipotle here and a poblano there. At the same time, it's not the heavy Sonoran food popular in so many local Mexican restaurants. Instead, it's a more interior Mexican approach with a lighter feel and a strong influence from street food. The space at Gallo Blanco is sparse with stained concrete on the floors and exposed ducts in the ceiling. During the day, abundant natural light enters through the windows that wrap around most of the room. At night, the restaurant is dark -- maybe a little too dark -- due to the minimalist fixtures in the rough-hewn ceiling.

Because this isn't a typical Phoenix Mexican restaurant, don't expect chips and salsa to arrive automatically at the table. Instead, order a serving of the chunky, freshly made guacamole with chips. Want something to grip rather than dip? In that case, the elote callajero (center photo below) is a good choice. It's an ear of grilled corn topped with paprika and crumbly cotija cheese. For those looking to start with greenery, two salads are regulars on the menu with a market salad sometimes available as a special. The salads are especially welcome since vegetables are abundant in Mexican cooking but often scarce in Mexican restaurants in the United States.The most offbeat starter is the chicharron de queso, essentially a fried sheet of cheese with aioli on the side. As the menu warns, "...this is not a quesadilla." With apologies to all readers from Wisconsin, it's for serious cheeseheads.

The entree selection is small and focused with an emphasis on simple preparations and local ingredients when feasible. Pork, beef, fish, and vegetables are available in both soft-shell tacos and tortas. The tacos, which feature house-made corn tortillas, are a bargain at two dollars each, and it's fine to mix and match different types in an assortment to be shared. Paired with optional sides like refried beans or jasmine rice, a few tacos add up to a reasonably priced meal. The tortas are much heftier with a slab of telera enclosing the chosen filling. In an unusual move, chicken appears only as a grilled half-bird and not as a taco or torta filling. The fish varies depending on what is available. Most recently, it has been halibut.

Be thankful for the moderate portions at Gallo Blanco when the time comes for dessert. The postre de chocolate (right photo below) is sinful in all the best ways. The crepes, on the other hand, are nicely restrained in their sweetness. They're fine as a closer after dinner, but they also work well as a breakfast entree. Drinks at Gallo Blanco are generally light and refreshing in keeping with the food. On a hot summer day, a watermelon fresca or a michelada, essentially a spiced beer, breaks the heat. Despite the Clarendon's hip image, Gallo Blanco is accommodating of families with children.There are plenty of high chairs available, and kids are not an unusual sight in the dining room. With both business and leisure travel down, the Clarendon may still be challenged to fill all its rooms, but at least the hotel can now boast a worthwhile restaurant in Gallo Blanco.

401 W. Clarendon Ave., Phoenix, AZ, 85013 | Map
(602) 274-4774
http://www.galloblancocafe.com
Twitter: @galloblanco

Lola Coffee

In May 2009, the original Coffee Plantation on Mill Avenue in Tempe closed after just over two decades of operation. The sad end of an era was motivated more by leasing shenanigans at the Centerpoint development than anything else, but the event also confirmed a recent trend: Although coffeehouse culture in the metro area may have first burgeoned in Tempe, it is now decidedly stronger in Central Phoenix. The Central Coffee Corridor is apparently far from saturated, though, as evidenced by the opening of two new coffeehouses in the Uptown area near the Central / Camelback station. One is an outpost of the Dutch Brothers chain. Because the emphasis there is on the drive-thru, there's little coffeehouse atmosphere. For good coffee and a good gathering place, the second new opening, Lola Coffee, is the place to be right now in Uptown Phoenix.

Lola is part of the revival of a funky little shopping center at the northwest corner of Central and Highland. The plaza has become more interesting lately with arrivals like Haus, Little Artika, Oliver & Annie, and Unique on Central. There are plenty of places to shop, and now there are finally some nearby places to eat and drink. Lola maintains the theme of cool, contemporary design common in its neighboring boutiques. There's plenty of illumination from the many windows, but also an interesting mix of lighting incorporating a chandelier and contemporary fixtures. Colors are varied but subdued, with mint green seats on the stools along a counter facing Central Avenue.

The look, the music, and the feel are all not too far removed from Lux, Lola's competitor a quarter mile to the south. That's not surprising since Lola is owned by Daniel Wayne, one of the founders of both Lux and Lola Tapas. Given this history, comparisons between Lola and Lux are inevitable. Both have fresh baked goods on display at the counter. Both offer free wifi and a mix of lounge seating and works areas. Both serve most beverages in real ceramic mugs when a customer orders "for here." The differences, then? For one, Lola's interior allows a lot more natural light, something generally available at Lux only when sitting at the picnic tables outside. Second, Lola feels less crowded and less cluttered than Lux. Of course, much of that effect may come from Lola's newness. Given time, it may be just as packed as its peer nearby.

The beverage list is streamlined with about a dozen choices on the chalkboard. Beyond basic coffee, espresso, and cappuccino, look for specialty drinks that blend coffee with flavors that are sweet but not sickeningly so. Cafe Borgia blends coffee with chocolate and orange; the Matador replaces the citrus with cinnamon. Both drinks can be accessorized with an espresso whipped cream, a worthwhile indulgence. These drinks are artistic in appearance, but even basic lattes (right photo below) are enhanced with leaves, hearts, or other designs created by the baristas. For tea drinkers, Lola also delivers. The tea comes in sachets rather than standard bags. That means larger pieces of tea leaves with better flavor. The Earl Grey has an unusually vigorous Bergamot flavor, and the Darjeelling is light, golden, and refreshing.

To match the drink options, Lola has an array of baked good always available. These are not mass-produced pastries in plastic wrap. Instead, Lola has brought Danielle Librera on board as its resident baker. Librera operates the Sweet Pea Bakery at the south end of Downtown. Although Sweet Pea's retail shop has closed, it's still a functioning bakery, and its output upgrades the Lola experience. For a sweet, rich experience, try the coffee cake, which mixes a crumbly top and a blueberry filling. Scones (center photo below) come in both sweet and savory varieties. Almond and cranberry are not surprising flavors, but a parmesan scone is an innovative alternative. For breakfast, ciabatta toast and a daily tart are good options. By the way, anyone wanting to order a custom cake from Sweat Pea can still do so via email.

At this point, both Daniel and Danielle are making Lola work with a complementary mix of quality drinks and snacks. The main complaint heard has been the shop's hours, especially the 7 PM closing time from Monday until Thursday. Hours stretch until 10 on Friday and Saturday, but the restricted hours leave Lola at a disadvantage the rest of the week. Right now, only Unlimited Coffee up on Glendale Avenue has the temerity to stay open until midnight. With new later hours going into effect for the light rail trains running outside Lola's doors, it seems only logical for the coffee house to stay up a little later too. Until that happens, enjoy Lola during the day and on weekend nights. It's a different scene than the Coffee Plantation was at its prime, but Lola is a welcome addition to Phoenix coffeehouse culture.

4700 N. Central Ave., Phoenix, AZ, 85012 | Map
(602) 265-5652

Lenny's Burger Shop

Phoenix natives and long-term residents can probably recall when cruising up and down Central Avenue was a big deal. Long before light rail and Midtown office towers, the stretch of Central above Downtown was a place to show off the car, look for a date, and have a basic meal of burgers, fries, and a coke at a place like the old Carnation restaurant or Bob's Big Boy. Those places are long gone, and the cruising culture has inevitably diminished as Phoenix has progressed from state capital to regional city to major metropolitan area, but the associated food still has a certain appeal. It's therefore fitting that Lenny's Burger Shop, a small local chain, has an outpost right on Central Avenue in the heart of the old Midtown cruising district. The current location just south of Thomas has replaced Lenny's older, smaller, and grubbier Central Phoenix restaurant that was once located on westCamelback.

Lenny's occupies a strip mall on the southeast corner of Central and Thomas, just across the street from the Thomas / Central light rail station. The little shopping center seems out of place and has seen better days. The anchor space, once home to branches of banks like Citibank and Norwest, now lies vacant, with its drive-thru now serving as an unofficial shade canopy for people waiting for the Thomas Road bus. The site desperately calls out for redevelopment to match the dense cluster of nearby high-rises, but that type of project will have to wait for a better real estate market and a healthier economy. Until then, Lenny's presence adds a bit of color and charm where those qualities are desperately needed. Lenny's makes up for the strip mall's drab stucco exterior with an interior that is a kitschy, energetic combination of quilted metal, checkered patterns, neon signs, tinsel decorations, '50s memorabilia, and Pepsi paraphernalia. The retro theme even extends to the music with oldies rock and roll on the speakers.

Lenny's is a casual place; order at the counter, help yourself to a drink at one of the self service soda fountains, and wait for your number to be called. Seating is at stools along a counter facing the kitchen. Two-top tables line the other side of the restaurant's linear space, and a few four tops are up front. There's also a second dining room off to the side, but it's closed during off-peak hours. For Lenny's, peak hours right now are principally the weekday lunch rush. Remember, the primary clientele today is Midtown office workers, perhaps former cruisers themselves, so the hours at Lenny's are on the early side with closing time at 7 PM. In recent months, Saturday lunchtime hours have been added, a small step toward a more lively Midtown. The restaurant is a little crowded -- enough so that customers have to duck behind the "order here" station to fetch iced tea. The friendly staff don't seem to mind. There are high chairs available for little ones, although no separate kid's menu. Still, the prices are low enough that ordering adult portions for young diners shouldn't be a hardship.

The food is obviously centered around hamburgers (center photo below) -- big, juicy, and moderately priced. The burgers are cooked to order and come in single, double, and triple configurations. All can be dressed to order with condiments, and variations liketeriyaki mushroom, chili, Mexican burgers offer some tempting pre-loaded options. All burgers can be purchased a la carte or in combos with fries and a fountain drink. Around the same time it added Saturday hours, Lenny's also added fish and chips (right photo below) to the menu. To be honest, the dish is not the restaurant's strength. The breading is a little soggy and melds with the fish inside instead of standing on its own as a distinctive coating. Customers seeking an alternative to red meat are better off with one of the grilled chicken sandwiches, grilled cheese, or the veggie burger. At the other end of the nutritional spectrum, anyone looking for maximum indulgence might turn to one of the dozen hot dogs available.

The principal sides are fries and onion rings, both unabashedly purveyed by food service powerhouse J.R. Simplot. The former are just okay; they have good potato flavor but also the sometimes mealy texture associated with pre-cut frozen fries. The onion rings are better with sweet onion slices encased in a crisp exterior. There's also coleslaw -- sweet and slightly soupy like most fast food versions of this popular side. Greenery is limited to a garden salad of mostly iceberg. It's best not to bother and to enjoy instead the fried dishes with any compensatory healthful eating deferred until the next meal. Every table is adorned with squeeze bottles of ketchup and mustard. A small condiment bar near the cash register provides additional choices like malt vinegar and hot sauce. To be sure, Lenny's is no Welcome Diner with a farm-fresh, locavore perspective on burger basics. Nevertheless, it works as a tasty and affordable link between the past and present of Midtown.

2825 N. Central Ave., Phoenix, AZ, 85004 | Map
(602) 263-8700
http://www.lennysburger.com

Wahsun

In cities with thriving Chinatowns, there's often a stereotype that the best places in those neighborhoods are cheap dives with minimal decor, inexpensive prices, and incredible food. It's ironic, therefore, thatWahsun , one of Phoenix's best Chinatown-style restaurants, is located in neither in the city's former Chinatown at the south end of Downtown nor in the newer Asian areas along Dobson Road. Instead, it occupies space in an ordinary shopping center on the northwest corner of 19th and Northern Avenues, just about a block north of the future 19th Ave. / Northern station. The plaza is best known for a Sprouts grocery store and a Bookmans store for used books, music, and entertainment. Look at the little strip building in the northern end of the center for Wahsun's small, undistinguished site.

Both inside and outside, Wahsun fulfills the Chinatown dive stereotype. Outside, there's little more than a sign proclaiming the restaurant's name and announcing to-go specials like roast pork and duck. Inside, expect sparse tables, minimal decor on the walls, and no piped-in music or television screens on the wall. The look makes it clear that this a place to be sought out only for the food. To enjoy the cuisine fully, though, it's necessary to show some interest in Chinese food beyond chow mein and sweet-and-sour whatever. The default menu is a red sheet listing about a dozen specials. They're all well-prepared, although not much of a departure from the standard American Chinese menu. They come with soups, egg rolls, etc. and make a good meal for one, but they're hardly a test of the kitchen's mettle.

Instead, ask for the "other menu." It's another red sheet, but this one lists choices that are a lot more interesting. The items listed in both English and Chinese emphasize bolder preparations and fresh ingredients. There's a fair amount of the minimalist Cantonese approach, but also some flourishes from other Chinese regional cuisines. Even a familiar starter such as egg rolls (center photo below) shows some creative flair. Unlike standard, pre-rolled, perfectly cylindrical egg rolls, Wahsun's version is more rough-hewn . The egg rolls are made to order from scratch, explaining an irregular appearance almost reminiscent of moon rocks, and allowing an opportunity for customization. Want egg rolls with shrimp and veggies, but no pork?Wahsun is happy to accommodate. Regardless of the customer's requested filling, the interior of these beauties is always replete with fresh, intact ingredients. Shrimp filling takes the form of whole prawns rather than finely minced shrimp meat; likewise, a vegetable filling means big hunks of napa cabbage and other greenery.

For main dishes, it's always best to ask what produce is fresh in the kitchen, since preparations may vary depending on seasonal availability. Lightly breaded flounder is sometimes available with yellow chives; at other times, a more familiar stir-fried preparation with vegetables like celery will do just fine. Noodle dishes include a dried-beef chow fun, a dish known for its slightly smoky flavor imparted when the chef has just the right touch with the wok. For shellfish, try the prawns with walnuts, which uses a light mayonnaise coating over the shrimp. It may not seem like a typical Chinese preparation, but it works. For meatless eating, the tofu with mixed vegetables (right photo below) is a sure thing. The bean curd has a perfect texture -- firm, slightly crisp on the outside and softer, but not rubbery, on the inside. Green vegetable options often include gai lan, Chinese broccoli, or snow pea leaves, the less widely-known counterpart to the more familiar pea pods used in many stir-fries. These dishes can often be prepared with a simple garlic sauce or a darker oyster sauce.

Because Wahsun is a bare-bones place, there's no dessert menu. Likewise, beverage options are minimal. Expect tea and canned sodas and little else; there's nothing in the way of beer, wine, or cocktails atWahsun. Another caveat: Wahsun does not accept credit cards, debit cards, or checks. Visit the ATM on the way or sell some unwanted books, CDs, or DVDs at the nearby Bookmans in order to fund the meal. Fortunately, with Wahsun's rock-bottom prices, cost should not be too great a concern. Almost all entrees come in under $10, and the portions are so generous that it is rarely necessary to order one entree per person unless some take-home leftovers are desired.Wahsun's hours are non-traditional with the restaurant currently open every day except Thursdays. Because it's essentially a two-person operation with Rose serving the front of the house and her unseen husband cooking in the back, there may also be closures for vacations. For that reason, it's best to call ahead if coming from a distance. Kids are fine here; in fact, Rose's children sometimes help serve customers.Wahsun may not be in a genuine Chinatown setting, but when the kitchen is really on, it's easy to close one's eyes and think otherwise.

8056 N. 19th Ave., Phoenix, AZ, 85073 | Map
(602) 995-4606