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| exterior |
Where diagonal Terrace Road meets Apache Boulevard and the light rail trains turn to the east just before the Dorsey / Apache Station, there’s a dreary strip mall on the northeast corner. Curry Corner, a descendant for the former Copper Kettle restaurant that was located up the street, is right in the middle of the plaza in an unassuming storefront. Next door is a closed hookah bar that Curry Corner will eventually incorporate into an expanded full-service dining room, one that might bring in families to supplement the student crowd.
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| the former hookah bar next door |
Curry Corner proclaims itself an “Indo-Pak” restaurant. While many eateries that identify themselves as “Indian” are run by Pakistani owners, Curry Corner is fairly straightforward about its Pakistani origins, and the differences between the cuisines of the two nations become apparent to anyone who explores the menu -- both the main one on a large board over the ordering counter and the smaller one near the entrance that lists daily specials. Until the expansion is done, customers order from either menu at the counter.
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| naan |
In fact, ordering can sometimes take a little effort. Be patient for a few minutes until one of the staff come up to the front. They’ll be happy to answer questions about the dishes, which seem vaguely familiar to anyone who dines frequently at Indian restaurants but is also full of less familiar dishes from Pakistan and influences from Afghanistan and Iran. Starters include samosas and pakora, bost staples of Indian buffets, and aloo tiki, perhaps the best of the choices with three peppery vegetable fritters right out of the fryer.
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| non-vegetarian thali |
Many of the dishes emphasize meat, often chicken but sometimes beef, lamb, or even goat. The traditional curry has rich flavor. Boxes of garam masala are visible behind the counter, but don’t assume pre-mixed spices are the whole story here. The dish is assertively flavored and comes with a cinnamon stick amid the meat. The one aspect of this dish that might take some getting used to is that there isn’t much more to it than meat and sauce. Don’t expect potatoes or vegetables as one might see in curries at nearby Thai or Japanese restaurants.
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| traditional curry |
Another classic here is chicken tikka masala, hunks of poultry marinated in yogurt, roasted, and then presented in a rich, creamy sauce. Chicken also works well in the karahi dish, where the principal flavors are tomatoes, onions, fresh cilantro, and chili heat. Chicken handi, which, like karahi, is named for the vessel in which it is traditionally prepared, uses a darker, spicier tomato sauce. Sazbi handi adds spinach to the mix. All these dishes can also be made with goat, a stronger tasting meat for those who don’t mind some bone and fat along the way.
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| chicken handi |
Beef is best enjoyed here on kabobs of spiced, ground meat. They’re available on their own, or as part of a tandoori mixed grill alongside several pieces of tender chicken tikka and a large piece of leg-and-thigh dark meat served on the bone. Like many of the entrees here, the tandoori dishes benefit not only from grilled onions on the platter, but also a side of pickled onions that add a tart note to the smoky meat when everything is scooped up and combined in a piece of naan.
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| tandoori mixed grill |
Despite the meaty emphasis at Curry Corner, there’s a vegetarian section on the menu with tasty dahls made from lentils and channa dishes made from chick peas. These are all well prepared, and the best way to sample them is via the vegetarian thali, which combines two curries of the restaurant’s choosing with some lentils, a serving of rice, a piece of naan, and a few condiments all artfully displayed on a round metal platter. Expect the curries to include ingredients such as pureed spinach or roasted eggplant.
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| vegetarian thali |
Since Pakistan is predominantly Islamic, there’s no liquor license at Curry Corner. Instead, enjoy one of yogurt-based lassi drinks in sweet, salty, or mango varieties. There are two dessert options: Kheer is a soupy rice pudding with delicate seasonings; Halwa is more like a hot cereal studded with slivered almonds. Both are pleasing ways to extinguish any lingering heat from the curries and masalas, and both come in portions generous enough for two or three people to share.
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| kheer |
Despite its stark decor and semi-self service model, Curry Corner is delivering solid meal values, generally for less than $10, from its current location. The planned expansion into the defunct hookah shop, under the same ownership as the restaurant, should make the atmosphere just a little nicer with little threat of a compromise to the flavorful food already served. With so many nearby intersections dominated by gas stations or convenience stores, it is reassuring that the corner of Terrace and Apache in Tempe is distinguished by its curry.
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| lassi |
1212 E. Apache Blvd., Tempe AZ 85281
(480) 894-1276
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